Jaipur

We ate lunch at the Surabhi restaurant and turban museum, where the waiter was delighted to discover that I speak Hindi - though not enough to follow everything he was saying. "I feel sad because I don't speak much English, so I can't converse properly with the customers," he said. He was very concerned that Ross didn't look happy (she was hot and tired). His solution, while we waited for lunch to arrive, was to demonstrate how to tie a turban.

This is only one of the many kinds of turban traditional in Rajasthan, as we learned when we visited the turban museum, which has examples of around 50 different types of turbans, most of them incredibly complex.