Guests of Conti Sertoli Salis: Part 2, The Palazzo

After an excellent (if somewhat hasty) lunch, the four of us had a private tour of Palazzo Sertoli Salis, which is still the home of the Sertoli Salis family, as well as the headquarters of the winery.

My photos don’t do justice to it: the palazzo is charming, rich with newly-restored tromp l’oeil frescoes cleverly designed to make the ceilings appear far higher than they are.

The paintings and furniture were intended to display wealth, yet the style is somehow appealing and cozy. Some of the family’s collection of antique documents and pictures is displayed museum-style, with (unusually for Italy) explanatory text in several languages.

^ Detail of the saloncello (small salon). Sertoli Salis’ “titled” wines are named after features of the palazzo.

Part 1: Lunch

Part 2: The Palazzo

Part 3: Wine!

Everyday Italian: Newspaper Headlines 14

War between gas stations: “My distributor [gas pump] set on fire by a colleague.”

Attempted rape – she hits him “below the belt.” [Good for her!]

Learn Italian in Song: Tu Come Stai

   

by Zero Assoluto

Nov 5, 2007

Keeley asked: "I’m going to Italy with my high school soon and would LOVE to be able to sing the songs that I may here on Deejay or MTV."

Oh, dear. I don’t listen to the radio or watch TV at all, so without Ross in the house I don’t have any access to what’s new on the Italian music scene. But there’s always YouTube, and I rememberd that this summer Ross and every other young person in Lecco went to a free concert by Zero Assoluto. So here they are.

 
ritornello:   refrain:
Tu come stai…   How are you?
è successo cosa non so tu lo dirai   Something happened I don’t know [what], you won’t say
fino a ieri andava tutto bene come mai?   Up to yesterday everything was fine, how on earth?
dimmi cosa credi tu non sai   Tell me what you believe, you don’t know
dimmi cosa credi tu non vuoi   Tell me what you believe, you don’t want to
dimmi che sei sempre tu chi sei   Tell me that you’re always who you are
dimmi adesso se ti va   Tell me now – if you want to.
     
è passato un pò troppo di tempo   A little too much time has passed.
come stai   How are you?
troppo tempo che non sei quella che sai che vuoi   Too much time that you’re not the one who knows what you want
forse c’è qualche cosa che non va   Maybe something’s wrong
(dimmi cosa credi tu…)   (Tell me what you believe)
forse non sai più che conta   Maybe you don’t know what counts anymore
(che sei sempre tu)   (That you’re always you)
quella che dice quello che pensa sempre   She who always says what she thinks
quella che sa guardare nel fondo della gente   She who knows how to look deep into people
(o parli chiaro o ti arrendi…   (either speak clearly or give up)
dimmi cosa resterà…quello che senti?)   Tell me what will be left… what you feel?
o ti confessi o ti tieni tutto dentro   Either confess or keep it all inside
(dimmi adesso se ti va di perdere tempo)   (Tell me now, if you want to waste time.)
     
che succede se ti chiamo non rispondi   What’s happening, if I call you don’t answer
no, no, non vuoi uscire da giorni…   No, no, you haven’t wanted to go out for days
se ti guardo ti volti   If I look at you, you turn away
tu che se hai un problema lo risolvi   You, who if you have a problem you resolve it
(che si fa?)   (What to do?)
ora tu mi parli   Now you talk to me
dei tuoi sentimenti spenti   About your extinguished feelings
tutti quei momenti che fino a ieri mi sembravano presenti)   All those moments that up to yesterday seemed present to me
o cerchi l’occasione dove questa situazione trovi conclusione   Either look for a chance where this situation can find a way to end
(c’ho pensato pure troppo)   (I’ve thought about it even too much)
dimmi allora che è così   Tell me then that this is how it is
(dimmi che c’è sotto)   (Tell me what’s underneath)
ah ah…hai provato a parlare lo stesso   Ah, ha, you tried to talk just the same
(dimmi che non mi vuoi più)   (Tell me that you don’t want me anymore)
dimmelo tu adesso   You tell me now.
     
tutto è troppo semplice   Everything is too easy
se non sai distinguere   if you can’t tell apart
parlano dei tuoi silenzi   [others] speak of your silences
dicono quello che pensi   they say that what you think
contano di più   They count for more
più di mille chiarimenti   more than a thousand clarifications
ma se un giorno tu trovassi le parole   But if one day you were to find the words
forse quel giorno capirò le tue paure   Maybe that day I would understand your fears
ma adesso non riesco a non lasciarti   But now I can’t manage not to leave you
(forse sto buttando tutto   (maybe I’m throwing away everything,
non senza rimpianti)   not without regrets)
     
cosa credi tu lo sai   What do you believe, you know
dimmi cosa credi tu non vuoi   Tell me what you believe, you don’t want to
dimmi che sei sempre tu chi sei   Tell me that you’re always who you are
dimmi adesso se ti va   Tell me now – if you want to.
     

Finishing Touches

When we moved into our apartment in Milan in 1991, we were young and just getting started in life – which is code for "didn’t have much money". Our furniture all came from Ikea, with supplementary storage: the old trunks we had shipped our stuff in from the US.

Rossella in the shelf

Our light fixtures for years were the same bare bulbs on wires that had been present when we bought the place. Once you’re accustomed to the fierce, unobstructed glare of a 150-watt bulb, it’s hard to get used to lower levels of light.

But, over time, we gradually upgraded some of our cheap furniture to get more storage space, Enrico got a new piano, and real light fixtures slowly began to appear. Each choice of a new one was agonizing. When we replaced the final bare bulb with a real ceiling lamp, sometime around 2001, we joked: "Now the house is all finished – we’ll have to move!"

And, not too long after that, we did move. The thirteen years we had spent in that apartment in Milan was the longest I’d ever lived in any dwelling in my life (which might be the case for Enrico as well – his family, unusually for Italians, moved quite a bit when he was young). We were no longer accustomed to change. Perhaps that’s why we were in a hurry to feel settled in our new apartment in Lecco, and had it completely furnished, including ceiling fixtures, in record time. Of course we then had to move again.

We’ve now been in our house for three years, and, once again, it was unpacked and looking very finished, very quickly. But it’s a big place; there’s always room for improvement.

Some time during the second year we finally replaced the last temporary light fixture, in the entryway. There had been no reason to rush: it had a big white-glass globe bulb, and almost looked intentional. Except that Enrico tended to point it out to any visitors complimenting us on our lovely home: "Yes, but we still have to find a light fixture for that…"

So finally one day he came home with this:

light fixture, Leuci, Lecco

It’s even local, made by a company in Lecco called Leuci. High coolness factor: you can position the tentacles any way you want.

The hanging is Indian; I won it at auction at the Woodstock reunion last summer. We still needed a coat rack for that corner – always useful by an entry – and Enrico found this adorable wrought-iron one in a small town in the mountains during one of his hiking excursions. (No, Italians don’t usually wear baseball caps – I use them to keep the sweat out of my eyes when gardening.)

More recently, we hung a beautiful tapestry (handcrafted by a women’s cooperative in Gujarat) that my classmate Sara brought us – stunning piece, see the detail at the top of this page. I moved next to it a watercolor of the Mussoorie hills done years ago by my Woodstock art teacher, Kathleen Forance, which had previously been overlooked and neglected in a hall corner.

…and I can think of lots more things to do to the house (not to mention the garden). My stay with Gianluca and Brian in San Francisco was inspiring: Brian’s trained as an interior designer, and it shows in their beautiful place. I’ll have to steal a few ideas from him. And I plan on some serious shopping during my upcoming India trip.

But we’ll never call this house "finished" – if we did, we would have to move again.

Deirdré Straughan on Italy, India, the Internet, the world, and now Australia