All posts by Deirdre Straughan

Italian Recipes: Torta di Pane (Bread Cake)

This is a good way to use old, dry bread. The recipe is more or less one that I scribbled down from a magazine in a waiting room.

  • Cut/break 1/2 kilo of dry bread into smallish dice
  • Soak it overnight (in the fridge) in about 1 liter of milk; I also add a few tablespoons of amaretto or other liqueur
  • Mix two eggs with 50 gm melted butter, 200 gm sugar, and 50 gm cocoa powder (unsweetened is fine)
  • Add a grating of lemon peel, raisins, pine nuts or other nuts. I also tend to toss in any other dried fruit I have around, e.g. figs.
  • Mix in the soaked bread; I use an electric mixer, which also helps pulverize the bread into smaller pieces, but the batter will not be smooth in any case
  • Bake at 175 C / 350 F for about an hour   It’s okay if it comes out a bit puddingy. It tastes best when warm, and reheats well in the microwave.

Hostages

Twelve Nepali hostages in Iraq were executed, and I had never even heard they’d been taken – and I look at headlines from multiple sources on news.google.com practically every hour. There is no Nepali military presence in Iraq and few Nepalis are Christian or Jewish, so their murderers had to strain to find an ‘excuse’ for killing them: “We have carried out the sentence of God against 12 Nepalis who came from their country to fight the Muslims and to serve the Jews and the Christians…believing in Buddhah [sic] as their God.”

I wish I believed that there was a just god who would eventually punish these evil people for their crimes, should humanity fail to do so. Sadly, I am unable to believe it – as usual, some god or other is conveniently invoked as an excuse for atrocity against fellow human beings.

National Differences in Olympics Coverage

Yes, I know the games ended a while ago, but I’m only now getting to see the part I actually care about – the equestrian events. It seems that local television in each country concentrates on those events at which the locals are expected to excel, and Italy didn’t expect much from its horsemen. On one of the Internet discussion boards that I frequent, someone who was vacationing in Italy during the Olympics remarked that, watching from Italy, she saw sports she’d barely even heard of, such as water polo.

Fortunately, my dad lives in England, where the BBC can be relied upon to show every minute of anything horsey, with the bonus of very knowledgeable commentary – you can learn a lot about horses and riding just by watching and listening. Dad very kindly recorded many hours of video for me, which I am now enjoying. The outcomes are even a surprise to me, since I made no effort to read about the results while the games were going on.

I don’t care much about the results anyway – I’m not watching to see which country wins. After all, nationality has become a rather legalistic concept at the Olympics. We saw most of the march-in during the opening ceremonies, and I was amused that a few countries had been invented (or re-invented) for political convenience, while a number of athletes were competing on behalf of countries to whom they had no ties except sponsorship and brand-new citizenship. This being the case, what does it mean to say that so-and-so country got x number of medals?

Equestrian competitions are no exception; the “nationality” of any horse-and-rider pair seems to be a matter of definition. The best horses are bred in a handful of countries (notably France) and exported worldwide. Top trainers work all over the world: one man (British? – I didn’t catch the name) was mentioned as having built up the Saudi Arabian team for the Olympics four years ago, and this time around he was working for Korea. Many of the riders had spent significant portions of their careers training and competing in other countries, and several had changed passports. All this takes the edge off any nationalistic pride one might be tempted to feel.

I enjoy watching horses, period, and to watch these champions moving so beautifully and clearly loving what they were doing was a thrill. Another thing I like about equestrian events is that they are the only ones (as far as I know) where men and women (and mares, stallions, and geldings) compete on an equal footing, and age is actually an advantage for both horse and rider – experience counts in precision events such as show jumping and dressage.

On the subject of national pride: at least here in Lecco we have a genuine local hero, Antonio Rossi, who got his start at the local Canottieri (canoers’) club, and went on to win two gold medals in Atlanta and one in Sydney, in canoeing. He still lives in Lecco, where he works as a member of the Guardia di Finanza (tax police), of all things. I haven’t quite understood how it is that all of Italy’s military and police forces have their own athletic teams in various disciplines. The Italian equestrian team included the Chimirri cousins, one of whom is a police officer, the other a carabiniere – both looking smart in their official uniforms with braid and insignia.

See also

Il Capriolo: A Wonderful Restaurant in an Italian Alpine Village

Saturday Enrico and I were restless and decided to go for an outing. We visited the abbey at Piona (a small town at the northern end of Lake Como), then headed up the mountain. We had a booklet listing restaurants in the province of Lecco, including one more or less in the area where we were. Turned out we hadn’t looked closely enough at the details – it was way up the mountain at 1100 meters, and took quite a while to reach over a narrow, twisty mountain road. We had to call several times for directions and to ask how long the trip should take, and we almost turned back several times.

But Il Capriolo turned out to be worth the trip. For primo, we shared a dish of gnocchi (potato dumpling pasta) with sweet gorgonzola cheese – creamy and rich with just a hint of gorgonzola sharpness. For secondo, we had the local buckwheat polenta, with generous portions of three different kinds of meat: brasato (braised) beef, spezzatino di vitello (small pieces of veal) with porcini mushrooms, and pork loin cooked with pancetta (bacon). The brasato was good, almost black on the outside from long, slow cooking in red wine. The other two meat dishes were even better, each with just enough gravy to add flavor to the polenta.

For dessert we had panna cotta (“cooked cream”) with a warm berry compote (see the video). All this, plus over half a litre of the house wine (a more-than-decent Cabernet), came to 40 euros for the two of us – cheap at the price!

Il Capriolo is also the local hangout for the inhabitants of this tiny mountain village, so there were people playing cards, watching TV, reading the newspaper, and a father came in with his kids to buy popsicles.

Moghul Shredded Chicken Curry

^ These are all Indian cookbooks that I own and use.

To make the chicken broth for the scripelle, Enrico had boiled two chicken thighs. Which meant I had lots of cooked chicken, plus leftover white rice from several previous meals (I always manage to overestimate how much rice everyone will eat). So Saturday night I made Moghul Shredded Chicken Curry, from Royal Indian Cookery. The recipe calls for steamed chicken breasts, but boiled thighs worked just as well. I pulled all the meat off the bones and shredded it, then:

  • fry 1 tbps cumin seeds in ghee or oil for 1 min
  • add one chopped onion, cook til soft
  • grind into paste 2 cloves garlic and a 1-inch cube of fresh ginger (actually, I used the food processor to chop very fine, not quite the same as paste…)
  • add to the pot with cayenne pepper and 1 tsp turmeric
  • in a separate pan, fry a finely chopped small onion in oil til brown
  • food-process this, along with 1 cup cashews, 1/4 cup blanched almonds, 2/3 cups dried coconut, into a fine-ish crumble
  • add to main pot, stir for a few minutes, add about 1/3 cup water, cook low for 5 minutes
  • add 1/4 cup yogurt and 1/3 cup raisins (previously soaked in water to soften), and salt, cook some more
  • add chicken, cook another 10 minutes or so

The recipe calls for a garnish and a final two tbsps of cream, but I didn’t bother – with the yogurt, it was plenty creamy. Along with this we had the leftover rice (I bought a microwave this year mostly to heat pasta and rice in) and a simple dish of green beans and peas (clearing odds and ends from the freezer!) with coriander, another Madhur Jaffrey recipe. And lots of chutneys.