Category Archives: Italy

Italian Recipes: Torta di Pane (Bread Cake)

This is a good way to use old, dry bread. The recipe is more or less one that I scribbled down from a magazine in a waiting room.

  • Cut/break 1/2 kilo of dry bread into smallish dice
  • Soak it overnight (in the fridge) in about 1 liter of milk; I also add a few tablespoons of amaretto or other liqueur
  • Mix two eggs with 50 gm melted butter, 200 gm sugar, and 50 gm cocoa powder (unsweetened is fine)
  • Add a grating of lemon peel, raisins, pine nuts or other nuts. I also tend to toss in any other dried fruit I have around, e.g. figs.
  • Mix in the soaked bread; I use an electric mixer, which also helps pulverize the bread into smaller pieces, but the batter will not be smooth in any case
  • Bake at 175 C / 350 F for about an hour   It’s okay if it comes out a bit puddingy. It tastes best when warm, and reheats well in the microwave.

Il Capriolo: A Wonderful Restaurant in an Italian Alpine Village

Saturday Enrico and I were restless and decided to go for an outing. We visited the abbey at Piona (a small town at the northern end of Lake Como), then headed up the mountain. We had a booklet listing restaurants in the province of Lecco, including one more or less in the area where we were. Turned out we hadn’t looked closely enough at the details – it was way up the mountain at 1100 meters, and took quite a while to reach over a narrow, twisty mountain road. We had to call several times for directions and to ask how long the trip should take, and we almost turned back several times.

But Il Capriolo turned out to be worth the trip. For primo, we shared a dish of gnocchi (potato dumpling pasta) with sweet gorgonzola cheese – creamy and rich with just a hint of gorgonzola sharpness. For secondo, we had the local buckwheat polenta, with generous portions of three different kinds of meat: brasato (braised) beef, spezzatino di vitello (small pieces of veal) with porcini mushrooms, and pork loin cooked with pancetta (bacon). The brasato was good, almost black on the outside from long, slow cooking in red wine. The other two meat dishes were even better, each with just enough gravy to add flavor to the polenta.

For dessert we had panna cotta (“cooked cream”) with a warm berry compote (see the video). All this, plus over half a litre of the house wine (a more-than-decent Cabernet), came to 40 euros for the two of us – cheap at the price!

Il Capriolo is also the local hangout for the inhabitants of this tiny mountain village, so there were people playing cards, watching TV, reading the newspaper, and a father came in with his kids to buy popsicles.

Customs – Clearing Personal Freight into Italy

When Enrico and I left the US, we had been living a grad student life (he was the grad student, I was just poor), and didn’t have all that much to move. Lots of books, my memorabilia, clothing, that was about it. It worked out to 30 boxes and a couple of trunks, which we shipped sea freight to Milan, where we would be living. It took six months or so to arrive, but that was fine as it took us almost that long to find a home and get settled in Milan.

One day we finally heard from the shipping company that our freight had arrived, and we had to go to the customs depot in Milan to get it. We arrived fully armed with inventories of every item that had been packed. It turned out I had been a little too punctilious in compiling the lists. The mention of “folk paintings from Africa” caused one stickler for protocol to threaten us that an art expert would have to be summoned from the local academy to assess the value of these paintings. All in vain my pleading that they were tourist items for which I had paid about $5. But he sent us off to another office for a second opinion.

The second man, fortunately, was on our side.

“Let’s get this stamped and get you out of here,” he said, “because in a couple of hours we’re going to have a sciopero bianco.

“A white strike? What’s that?”

“That’s where we actually apply every single rule in the book, and nothing moves for days.”

We had planned to get the paperwork done and come back the next day with a truck to actually take our stuff away, but this bit of news galvanized us into action. I believe we finished the paperwork, went for the truck, loaded up (by ourselves), and got out again within two hours.

Jes’ Plumb Iggerant

American Companies Demonstrate Lack of Global Vision

One thing that makes me insane about trying to do business with many American companies is their sheer ignorance about the rest of the world. You might be surprised at the big names that fall into this trap. Examples:

A bank sent a letter that I needed to call them, and helpfully provided a number for me to do so. 866 area code? Where’s that? Oh, it’s a new toll-free number. Well… let’s try anyway. “The toll-free number you have dialled is not toll-free if dialled from outside the United States.”

Now, mind you, the letter they sent me had my address printed at the top, you know, the address that includes ITALY. And there was no other number printed anywhere in the letter or letterhead that I could call. Fortunately, I have some normal numbers scribbled down from a similar occasion a few years ago.

Later – When I finally found the right person, I mentioned the toll-free number problem. He apologized and said that the error had been spotted after the letters were printed, and some were reprinted with a more useful number, but mine slipped through the cracks. At least they knew a mistake had been made. Most American businesses, even those who do plentiful business overseas, have no clue that their toll-free numbers are NOT international.

NB: I used SkypeOut to make the phone calls, which saved me a bunch of money. They had a few glitches at the beginning, but it seems to be working fine now. Now I just have to get back in the habit of calling people.

Last summer I was in the US, and decided to pop down from Boston to DC to visit friends. I looked on one of the travel sites, Expedia or Travelocity, I forget which, and found a flight at the right time and price. Got through the booking process all the way to billing – which meant I had already typed in a lot of information – before I slammed up against a screen that wanted me to enter a US address for my credit card. My credit card is billed in Italy. The site had no provision for that. Nor did its rival, my next try.

I then went to United Airlines’ site, to see if they would give me the same price on the same flight. Yes, they would. Cool. Got through screens and screens of required information, and – boom! – this site doesn’t accept a non-US credit card. NB: This card is issued by an American bank and paid from an American bank account, they only send the statements to Italy. But there’s simply no way to enter a non-US address on the forms on many websites.

So I called United to see if I could purchase by phone. Half an hour later, the second agent I had been passed to finally concluded, in some frustration himself, that there was NO WAY I could use my credit card. Hello? United? Are you an international airline? Do you EVER have customers from outside the United States? Find a travel agent, you say? How can I – they’ve all been driven out of business by Expedia, Travelocity, and the airline websites! I finally had to use my friend’s credit card and pay her back with a personal check – imagine how humiliating this would have been in a business situation.

Ross wanted an iPod for her birthday this year. Okay, these are bound to be more expensive in Europe (I’ve never even seen one here) so, since she was in the States herself at the time, I figured I’d order it directly from Apple, where I could have it engraved with her name and a message: “15 GB for 15 years” – ain’t I the coolest mom ever?

Guess what? Apple wouldn’t take my credit card.

Well, when all else fails, there’s Amazon, who never turn up their noses at my money (although some of their “partner sites”, such as Drugstore.com, do). They even went the extra mile on customer service. This particular model of iPod was discontinued two days after I ordered it, resulting in an immediate $50 price drop at Amazon. They credited the discount back to my credit card, AND say they’ll give me a $50 gift certificate. Thank god somebody knows how to treat customers.

Now, of course, the iPod is having problems, I can’t get it recognized by my Windows machine all of a sudden. And Apple tech support appears to be non-existent. But that’s a gripe for another time.

Italian Recipes: Scrippelle

Saturday night we had scrippelle, a traditional treat from Abruzzo. You can think of them as crepes made without milk, or very, very thin omelettes. These had been home-made for us by family friends, Enrico brought them back carefully wrapped in layers of plastic with a wet dishtowel, storing them in fridges when he stopped along the way. They freeze very well, but we decided to eat them right away.

The simplest way to prepare scrippelle is to roll them up with lots of freshly-grated parmigiano inside, place three in a shallow bowl, and pour fresh, hot chicken broth over them. Sprinkle with some more parmigiano if you like, and dig in.