Category Archives: Italy travel

La Scala Re-Opening

I haven’t been following the Muti-La Scala fight closely, but I do have a bit of inside information. The New York Times said:

“MR. MUTI had reason for optimism. He had just presided over what was widely proclaimed the cultural event of the year in Europe on Dec. 7, the reopening of La Scala after a three-year restoration and renovation. The project had encountered protests from preservationists and the usual construction delays, but the finished house was widely regarded as a masterpiece, with its new stage contraptions functioning smoothly and its venerable décor glistening afresh.”

Uh, yeah, right. The finished house was not finished. The glistening decor had been hastily cleaned of construction dust, dangling wires tucked away, etc., for the big opening-night performance. Stagehands nearly lost limbs operating the new and unfamiliar stage contraptions, but, from the audience’s point of view, everything did run smoothly.

Performances then moved right back to the Teatro degli Arcimboldi, where they have been held since the La Scala restoration began, and will continue to be held until it is truly finished. The grand opening night marking its completion was, appropriately enough, a messinscena (mise en scéne).

Montorfano: A Medieval Village Above Lago Maggiore

In November of 2004 we visited Montorfano, a village near Lake Mergozzo, just north of Lago Maggiore.

It’s famous for the Romanesque church of St. John the Baptist, built in the 11th or 12th century (photos below).

above: This, I suppose, is the “orphaned mount” from which the town gets its name.

Romanic church of St. John the Baptist, built in the 11th or 12th century

Romanic church of St. John the Baptist, built in the 11th or 12th century

Romanic church of St. John the Baptist, built in the 11th or 12th century

ruins of much earlier buildings, dating from the 5th or 6th and 9th centuries.

^ next to the church, ruins of much earlier buildings, dating from the 5th or 6th and 9th centuries.

an ancient waterway, used in transporting granite from a local quarry

an ancient waterway, used in transporting granite from a local quarry.

a house in the village with a Peace flag

^ a house in the village with a Peace flag

old stone road

old stone road

steps up to the restaurant where we ate lunch. These steps were originally build to get granite down from the quarry

steps up to the restaurant where we ate lunch. These steps were originally build to get granite down from the quarry

same path, on the way back down

same path, on the way back down

Summer Storm Over Lake Como

55 secs

There was a beautiful storm last night, off in the distance to the north. I recorded for about 40 minutes, then edited it down – I only worked through the first ten minutes or so before I got very bored of looking for the lightning in all that darkness!

Dressing for Italy: Revised

I may have to eat my words about Italians not wearing shorts. I’m seeing more and more of them doing exactly that. And men in baggy capri-length pants, with big clunky sneakers, yet! What is Italy coming to?

Fabrizio said something to me years ago that always stuck in my mind (though it took me years to act on it): In Italy, dressing well is considered an act of courtesy towards others.

Not every Italian thinks this way, nor abides by it all the time, but, as cultural markers go, I’d say that this is a sign of an advanced civilization. When somebody goes out in public dressed like a slob, what are they saying about their attitude towards you, who have to look at them?

I am permanently scarred from the vision, 20 years ago, of an American woman in a supermarket in Jakarta (Indonesia) wearing sloppy clothes, with her hair in curlers. Maybe going shopping in curlers was normal where she came from, but I cringed at her doing it in a country where she was a guest, and, by shared nationality, implicated me in her rudeness.

Share your own tips on dressing for Italy

On the Road to Siena

We were en route from Chianti to Abruzzo and decided to visit Siena, for the first time in years. This little sequence is the approach to the old walls of the city, and parking. It shows a bit of scenery, but mostly I just thought the contrast between the view and the soundtrack was amusing. Yes, we were actually listening to that in the car (I make very weird compilation CDs for car trips). The Cartoons were a Danish novelty band; you probably won’t have heard of them unless you lived in Europe and had a pre-teen kid (as we did) about five years ago.