Category Archives: Italy

A Woman’s Work…

When somebody asks “How are you?” my usual response is “Tired”. And that’s been my usual response for as long as I can remember. How did I get to this state? Let us review my typical day:

6:45 wake up, wake Rossella, turn on my computer, take a shower.

7:00 if it’s Monday or Friday (or I’m working from home), put in a load of laundry, because Mimma (our housekeeper) will be there to hang it to dry later.

7:05 start coffee, run a brush through my hair, put on mascara, get dressed, call Ross again, check email and headlines.

7:15 drink coffee, empty and/or fill dishwasher, clean stove and counters (no, I didn’t do it after dinner last night), blow dry my hair for 60 seconds (all it needs, for which I am thankful!).

7:30 out the door with Ross to catch the bus at 7:35.

NB: If Enrico is driving down to Lecco that morning to teach, move everything 15 minutes later – he drops Ross near school and me at the train station on his way to his office.

~7:55 arrive at the station, grab a newspaper, go sit on my train, which starts from Lecco, so it’s waiting in the station. This is important – it means that I don’t have to stand on the platform, exposed to all weathers, and I don’t have to fight for a seat. In fact, this train is so empty that the seat in front of me almost always remains unoccupied, so I have room to stretch my legs.

8:17 train leaves. During the trip, I read, write, work on my website, etc.

9:10 When on time, train arrives in Milan. Take the metro to the office (two stops), walk the last two blocks, arrive around 9:25.

~10:00 first coffee break, preferably with one or more colleagues – depends who else needs the caffeine as urgently as I do.

~1:00 lunch with colleagues or friends – about 40 minutes, shorter when we eat in the office, longer when we go out.

5:30 leave the office to head home – metro back to Milan Central Station.

5:40 arrive at the station, 20 minutes before my train leaves, to ensure a good seat. I could probably arrive later, but by 5:40 I risk only finding seats where my knees will be jammed against those of someone sitting in front of me. By 5:50 I risk not finding a seat at all.

6:00 train leaves Milan, I call Enrico and/or Ross to find out who’s where, and what we need for dinner. During the train ride I read a book or The Economist, or articles from the day’s blogs and newspapers, saved on my laptop. Or I work on my website, or (occasionally) edit video.

6:50 train arrives in Lecco. Sometimes I meet Enrico on his way back from his office and get a ride home, more often I take the bus at 7:10, during the lighter parts of the year I may walk (40 minutes, all uphill – who needs a gym?). I may stop along the way to buy bread, milk, fruit, vegetables or whatever else we need at home.

7:30 arrive home (on the bus). Wash my face, turn on my computer again, start making dinner (or helping Enrico make it).

8:00 dinner

8:30 Clean up after dinner, other small stuff. In warmer months, Enrico (usually) or I water the garden.

9:00 leisure at last – Sometimes all three of us watch something together (“Desperate Housewives” is our latest obsession), other times we do our own separate things (in Ross’ case, homework, often with Enrico’s help).

10:30 or 11:00 crawl into bed, read or do crosswords til I can’t keep my eyes open

The waking-up-at-6:45 routine also applies to Saturdays, because Ross goes to school six days a week. Otherwise, weekends aren’t particularly routine. During warm weather I garden, sometimes we go somewhere, sometimes we have guests, etc. And I catch up on household stuff like (more) laundry.

I try to work from home one day a week, to spare myself the commute. Instead, I spend those four hours doing things like cook a non-rushed meal, get a haircut, catch up on whatever household, banking, etc. stuff has been neglected.

Is this an average day in Italy? For many people, yes. Some commute even further than I do, spending two hours or more just on the train so that they can live in, e.g., Sondrio, and work in Milan. They have their reasons: historical and family ties to a smaller town (where it’s also a lot cheaper to live), but the jobs are in Milan.

As for me, I swore I would never commute this way, but here I am, commuting – and very tired.

Close Neighbors: Living Cheek-by-Jowl in Italy

The vast majority of Italians live in villages, towns, and cities – very few have ever experienced the American “norm” of living in a single-family dwelling surrounded by its own plot of land. The ancient Romans invented the apartment building, an urban space-saving solution which has remained popular throughout Italian history and across the country.

This means that almost everybody in Italy lives very close to somebody else. In these circumstances, you had better learn to love thy neighbor as thyself – or at the very least to get along with him – because you’ve got him practically in your lap.

The impact of this proximity is somewhat reduced by the fact that Italian apartment buildings are far more solidly built (of steel, concrete, and brick) than American ones (wood frames and plywood). I have experienced apartment living in both countries, and can tell you that sound doesn’t travel nearly as easily through Italian walls as American ones.

On the other hand, Italian homes are not sealed up and air-conditioned/heated all year as many American ones are. Whenever it’s warm enough (and sometimes even when it’s not), windows are wide open, and the only thing protecting you from your neighbors is distance – not nearly enough distance.

The first thing you notice is that Italians are LOUD. Which can be fun. During our early years in Milan, we – and everyone else in Italy – were watching a World Cup football game on a hot summer night, with our windows flung wide. Our living/dining room opened onto the courtyard of our building complex, along with dozens of our neighbors’. When Italy scored, the entire city erupted in cheers, echoing so loudly around the walls that it felt as if we were in a stadium. This gave us a pleasurable sense of being part of a community while sitting home on our own sofa.

You can hear the neighbors’ family arguments (and they can hear yours). You can smell what they’re having for dinner. Many Italians’ chief objection to having immigrants next door is that “their food smells funny”. Personally, I was very happy when a bunch of Sri Lankans moved in below us – their cooking smelled heavenly to me, and I wished they would invite us over. Except once a week or so when they had some exceptionally fishy fish.

There are laws of buon vicinato (good neighborship), including the times at which you must be quiet so people can sleep (including an afternoon nap period), and where you can hang your laundry (facing the interior courtyard – it can’t be visible from the street: we don’t want the place to look trashy).

Italians are accustomed to all this, and by and large it works well. Neighbors greet each other in the halls, chat in the elevators, and generally manage to get along.

But sometimes they don’t. For weeks now, the Italian media has been obsessed with a crime that took place in Erba, a mid-sized town between Como and Lecco. A young woman, her mother, and her two-year-old son were murdered in their apartment, along with a neighbor whose husband was also left for dead with his throat slashed, but survived after being pulled from the apartment, which had been set afire in an attempt to destroy the evidence.

Suspicion first fell on the young woman’s Tunisian husband, who had just been released from a minor jail sentence (drug-related), but it quickly became clear that he had a cast-iron alibi: he was in Tunisia.

Last week the survivor was finally in condition to speak and provide information leading to the arrest of the downstairs neighbors, who eventually collapsed under interrogation and admitted to the premeditated massacre. The two families had been quarrelling for years over the noisiness of the murdered family: loud quarrels between the Tunisian husband and his Italian wife, the child crying, etc.

The young woman’s parents also lived in the building, so it wasn’t strange that her mother was present when the neighbors came up armed with knives and a crowbar, ready to kill – they were happy to dispatch the mother as well, whom they considered an impicciona (interfering busybody).

That the other neighbors got involved was almost accidental: they had heard the screaming, thought it was the usual family feud below, and decided to wait til it blew over to take their dog for a walk. When the wife finally went out with the dog, she found the apartment in flames, saw the horror inside, and ran screaming for her husband. The murderers then tried, only half successfully, to remove them as witnesses.

This kind of large-scale slaughter would scarcely raise an eyebrow in the US, but in Italy it’s big news. And I’m glad of that – I don’t want to live in a country that takes such violence for granted. The Italian public is really upset, apparently because it’s the neighbors. Had it been the Tunisian husband, they would have shrugged it off: What can you expect from these Muslim immigrants? But – my god! – the (Italian) neighbors! What is this world coming to?

It’s nice that Italians in general trust their neighbors enough to be so shocked at this betrayal. In many parts of the US, being murdered by one’s neighbors would be no particular surprise.

A newspaper headline January 13th read: “Massacre in Erba: The Couple Had Already Tried to Kill Them”. (I did not bother to read the details.)

Family Portraits

Americans may be the most-photographed people in the world. Many American families, especially those who have children, sit for a formal photographic portrait every year, documenting the stages of their lives as the children are born and grow. (For holiday portraits, some families even dress in matching clothing, which may be taking things a little too far…)

Most American schools publish yearbooks which include an individual portrait of every child, every year, and parents are expected to buy packages of their kids’ yearbook photos to share with friends and family. When I was in school, you had to get the package that included lots of little copies of your picture, to give out as tokens of friendship.

Every occasion in an American child’s life may be marked with a formal portrait: graduation (there are graduation ceremonies for kindergarten!), sports teams, school events and trips, religious rites, proms, etc. It’s quite common in American homes to see walls entirely covered in family portraits and commemorative photos.

Part of the reason, I think, is that many American extended families are geographically dispersed and don’t see each other frequently, so it’s nice to have photos to send to family members and friends far away – I certainly enjoy the Christmas card family photos that I receive. Doting grandparents hang photos of their grandchildren, and insist on giving guests the full tour of the family, which I find very sweet (and informative).

In the Italian homes I’ve visited, I haven’t seen evidence of such a strong tradition of family portraits (nor have I heard of any offer of relatively cheap portrait packages such as you find in the US). But why would there be? In Italy, extended family members tend to live in the same town, same neighborhood, and possibly under the same roof! They see each other all the time – no need for reminders. If anything, they’ll have a few silver-framed foto ricordi (photo memories) from special vacations, and probably a wedding picture, on view somewhere in the house. (Weddings in Italy are photographed and videoed as much as anywhere else – a topic for another article.)

When you do see family portraits in Italy, they may be paintings. After all, many of the paintings in museums today were originally created as someone’s family portrait, and, in Italy, families go back a very long way: some fine paintings have simply never left the possession of the original family. The Titian portrait of a cardinal that I once saw at the home of a classmate of my daughter Ross was there because the cardinal was an ancient, distant relative of the family.

My husband’s family is neither wealthy nor noble, but we nonetheless have some paintings to remember them by. These are hung in the most “formal” area of our house, while – in deference to my American sensibilities – photos of friends and family run up the walls along the stairs to Ross’ room on the top floor. My aunt Rosie had a wall in her house covered in several generations of family photos; I liked being part of that, and, when she died, I brought back some of those pictures to add to our own picture wall.

I haven’t had an American-style studio portrait done since I was in college. We photos of Ross done a few times, but Enrico, Ross, and I have never yet had occasion to sit for a family portrait together.

I usually feel uncomfortable in front of the camera, and am not convinced that the average studio photographer could accomplish a shot of me that I would like. So I was intrigued by the photos my dad and his wife Ruth had done at a photo studio near their home in Milton Keynes (UK). The results were terrific, and very different from the usual stiffly-posed studio portraits I’ve seen. And they had so much fun doing it that Ruth gave gift packages, first to her sister and brother-in-law, then to me and Ross during our recent visit.

photo at top: Ross ready for an evening out. Over her shoulder you can see one of the portraits we had done when she was small.

Everyday Italian: Learn from Newspaper Headlines 2

^ above: At the wedding lunch, [he] betrays his wife with his [male] friend.

Fell in acid, Lecchese dies after three months.

Terrible accident: a woman run over and killed in the crosswalk.

Alarm on the Grigna (a local mountain) – six hikers lost.

left: It’s a long story, read it here.

right: Marconi Cinema closes

Old hospital is a dump

Clean Lecco – the street cleaners return to the street (I hadn’t noticed they were missing).

The “spider” Corti fights for life. At first glance, this headline seems very strange, but if you live in Lecco, you know what it’s about: the Ragni [spiders] of Lecco are a longstanding club of local mountaineers, famous for exploits such as the first ascent of K2.

Bandits on the run – shoot-out in Valsassina

Autos in the center [of town] – 1000 new traffic fines

Car taxes in the Lecco area – sting for 9 cars out of 10

Minors and disagio – boom in foster care in the area. Disagio is difficult to translate. Agio means comfort, feeling at ease. Disagio is the opposite, but it’s also used as a bureaucratic/social service term for severe family troubles, economic and social disadvantages, etc.

Got any good headlines to share?

Everyday Italian: Learn from Newspaper Headlines

^ Chiavenna, Dec 2006

Madesimo: costs of tele-heating* inflame the town

Talamona: criminal blaze destroys the kids’ nativity scene.

At the newstand: the book K2

Chiavenna: offerings stolen from the nativity scene

Two tourists injured on the ski slopes in Madesimo

*Teleriscaldamento, available in some Italian towns, recovers heat from power stations and pipes it into homes.

Chiavenna, Dec 2006

New Year’s Eve in the piazza: Chiavenna live on TV

Provera [says]: “No to the Muslim demands. We’ll/let’s defend our nativity scenes.”

Dec, 2006 – There were a few stories around Italy (though not, I believe, in Chiavenna) about nativity scenes being removed from schools after protests from non-Christian (not necessarily Muslim) parents. Provera, whoever he is, evidently tried to make political capital out of this.