Austin Music

While driving us around in his car, my friend John introduced us to radio station KGSR , playing an eclectic mix of great rock and blues. He also gave us one of the station’s broadcast twin CD packs featuring (among many others) Los Lonely Boys. I’d never heard of them, and didn’t have an opportunity to listen to the CD during the trip, but my brother mentioned that they’re “all the rage” in Austin these days.

Austin’s Bergstrom airport is small, but, as befits “the live music capital of the world,” it’s got a selection of great music in the “Austin City Limits” store, and you can listen to some of it. So I got to hear Los Lonely Boys there, fell instantly in love, then was immensely frustrated that the CD was out of stock. So I bought a concert DVD instead, and am listening to it now. Wow! If you like hard-rocking Texas blues a la’ Stevie Ray Vaughn, you will LOVE this.

Austin airport also has a great bookstore, a branch of Book People, one of the few independent bookstores left in America. Even though I could get the same books cheaper on Amazon, I make it a point to shop at Book People’s main store when I’m in Austin: only at independent bookstores can you browse through shelves of books selected by intelligent readers who DON’T necessarily think the way you do, an experience which Amazon so far has not been able to duplicate.

I bought Jared Diamond’s new book, “Collapse,” which I eagerly anticipate will be as amazing as his Pulitzer Prize-winning “Guns, Germs and Steel.”

Overheard on Campus

A group of young students were sitting by the turtle pond when we stopped by to say hi to our turtles’ relatives. One (girl, not turtle) concluded a cellphone conversation and turned to the others:

“Guess what Mary just told me! She smoked dope with her mom!”

Her friends’ reactions were mostly of the “Eww!” variety. The conversation then turned to to who else’s parents smoke dope (most of the group), how they had learned about it, and whether they would ever smoke with their parents. Some parents had tried to hide the fact from their kids, as ineptly as they might once have tried to hide from their own parents: “He said it belonged to a friend, but I knew it was his.”

Kids today. You just can’t tell ’em anything.

Good Food in Austin

No one should go to Texas without eating Mexican food, and we were fortunate to have my cousin Guy’s guidance to the good stuff. We ate at El Mercado (on Lavaca), some of the best Tex-Mex I’ve ever had. Standard enchiladas and fajitas, but the enchilada sauces (one green tomatillo, one red) were amazing.

We had Sunday brunch at Chez Zee, sitting at the bar because there was a half-hour wait for a table and I didn’t want to spend two hours on a meal. While trying to find decent food over Valentine’s weekend, I had occasion to reflect on the fact that it’s rare to wait for a restaurant in Italy – I can’t think of a single time we’ve done it, perhaps because, if a given restaurant is full, there’s always another great one nearby. Not always the case in the US. Chez Zee might even have been worth the wait, but eating at the bar was fine, especially as we were right behind the talented jazz pianist/singer, to better enjoy her music.

During our wanderings, Ross and I lunched one day at the Kerbey Lane Café near the UT campus, a great place for healthy food (including vegetarian). For one dinner we went the opposite route, with fancy steaks at Dan McKlusky’s. The food was very good, but the dining experience was spoiled by our fellow diners. Due to some weird acoustics where we sat in the front corner, everything seemed very loud, especially from the next table, where a man had invited two people for a business dinner in hopes of “getting your thoughts on this” (some business proposition). I don’t think he got many of their thoughts, because he did 99% of the talking himself – loudly – and we all learned far more about him than we needed to know. Lack of sensitivity to others is a common handicap among computer geeks, which he evidently was (his tales included his early days on punch-card machines and more recent excitement at visiting the world’s largest flight simulator facility). His daughter was student president of something or other at the University of Houston; evidently she is more astute in dealing with humans than her father is.

Our best meal was at the home of Julia and Dani. Julia is a friend of my old friend Barb. Thanks to Barb, she has been reading my newsletter for some time, and we’ve occasionally exchanged emails about something I’d written. So when I knew I was coming to Austin, I dropped her a line, and she invited us for dinner. “Spankyville,” as they call their place (named after their cat Spanky), is one of the most comfortable homes I’ve ever been in. Comfortable in the sense of a nice place to be: as soon as we walked in, we knew that we were among friends in a house full of warmth. It’s hard to explain, but a few rare places in the world make you feel that way. And we sure needed it right then.

The Chinese/Mongolian hot pot dinner was great; it’s a tradition in Julia’s family ever since her father, years ago, invited the entire Chinese Students’ Association of Texas Tech home for Thanksgiving dinner.

cooking at Spankyville

Welcome to Spankyville: Texas Hospitality, with a Twist

shot Feb 13, 2005, 2:59 mins, 10.4 MB

compressed with Sorenson Squeeze at 360 kbps video, 96 kbps audio

music by Crosby, Stills & Nash

I’m just back from my third trans-Atlantic trip in six weeks, this one an emergency visit to Austin, Texas, where various of my relatives seemed to be dying. My aunt Rosie did indeed look like death when we arrived, but improved over the week; it now seems that she will survive this latest crisis. (Rosie’s health problems were originally caused by botched surgery, a long, painful story that I will go into some other time.)

Rossella volunteered to accompany me and shore me up emotionally, which she did very effectively. We stayed in hotels near the hospital and of course spent a lot of time at the hospital, but also saw a number of friends and relatives, and a good bit of Austin. I didn’t bother to rent a car; we got rides a lot of the time, and taxis are cheap. We also did an unTexan amount of walking, one day making a circuit from St. David’s hospital on 32nd street, through the University of Texas campus, down to 12th and West Lynn for lunch with a friend, and back again to 21st where we finally called a cab back to the hospital. Warm spring weather was an inducement to be outdoors – the Texas air smelled wonderful after three weeks of rain, and we knew we’d be coming back to more winter in Lecco (where it’s snowing today).

Aside from the circumstances, it was nice to be back in Austin, where I had passed some of my college years. The city has grown a lot, vertically downtown and horizontally towards the edges, but most of the areas familiar to me looked much the same, with funky houses and lots of trees. Sadly, many of the beautiful, twisty Texas live oaks are dying of oak wilt, leaving brown swathes among the green.

more Spankyville here!

Sex Education in Italian Schools

What with all the fuss in the US about sex education in schools, I was curious to know what, if anything, would be done about it in Italian schools. I got my answer recently, when Ross’ class [then age 15] had two 3-hour sessions at school. Parents were not notified before or after, and wouldn’t have known it was happening unless their kids told them. Ross told me quite a bit about it, though I’m not prepared to swear that she told me everything.

A representative of the local health agency (ASL) came with a young woman who was observing as part of her psychology studies. There was an icebreaker in which the kids (mostly jokingly) introduced each other, then an exercise in which they were told a story about a girl who needs to get across a river to see her boyfriend. The boatman says he’ll take her if she’ll have sex with him. She has no other way to reach her boyfriend, so she doesn’t know what to do. She goes to her mother, who says she doesn’t want to be involved.

The girl finally resolves to have sex with the boatman. When she reaches her boyfriend she tells him what happened, and he rejects her for having sex with someone else. The class was asked to determine who, in this improbable story, is “responsible.” (Whether they were meant to address “responsibility” in the sense of who was responsible for what happened, or in the sense of behaving responsibly, was not clear – perhaps deliberately.)

Ross told me that this degenerated into a vicious argument over abortion – “Who would be responsible if she got pregnant?”. Lecco is a very Catholic town, and the ASL lady told the class that, although abortion is legal, they would have trouble finding anyone in Lecco to perform one. I guess it’s good to be warned; fortunately, Milan is easily reached, should the need arise. More importantly, local health authorities are taking the correct steps to prevent the *need* for abortion: the kids were given detailed information on birth control and the use of condoms for disease prevention as well as birth control. They were also told that they can go to a youth clinic at their local ASL for more information, with or without their parents’ knowledge. The ASL lady said that they do try to involve parents in any big decisions (such as abortion), but that the kids have the right to keep their parents out of it if they prefer.

Interestingly, abstinence was never mentioned. I asked Ross why she thought the ASL lady didn’t discuss it as an option. “Oh, everyone would have jumped all over her.” It was clear that a number of the kids are already sexually active, and no judgment upon them was given or implied. Wow. Health care professionals who are allowed to approach teen sex realistically. What a concept.

I’m very relieved that the ASL takes these initiatives. As far as Ross and I can tell, I’m the only mother among her friends who talks to her kid about sex, and, from what Ross tells me, dangerous misinformation abounds among her Italian peers. If the parents aren’t talking to these kids, someone has to –the stakes these days are life and death. Ross’ friends know that I talk to her (I’m considered the coolest mom in Lecco for several reasons, including that), so I hope they’d feel comfortable talking to me if they needed to, but I’m glad someone more authoritative and knowledgeable is there for them – it diminishes my risk of being lynched by the good parents of Lecco!

^ Top: Sex education doesn’t stop at school. The public health poster shown above says “Defend yourself from AIDS, not from someone you like. Age does not save you from the risk of contagion.”

Deirdré Straughan on Italy, India, the Internet, the world, and now Australia