Category Archives: Italy travel

Milano: Italy’s Under-Appreciated City

Going to Milan for the Expo? Check out these great tips on  Where to Eat, Play and Stay and What You Need to Know.

FAQs

Getting from the airport to the city:

Left luggage room at Malpensa: on the Arrivals floor, go down the corridor to the right (past the bus/train ticket office) and you’ll see it on your left. They will x-ray your luggage and charge 2.50 euros per piece per day.

Getting around Milan: public transport.

Taxis can be found at marked taxi stands throughout the city, or can be called at any of these numbers: 02-8585, 02-6969, 02-4040 (if you need a taxi at a particular time, you can reserve in advance). They are not allowed to stop for pickup just anywhere, so it is usually ineffective to try to flag them down. Taxis in Milan are expensive. A taxi from the city to Malpensa airport will cost at least 100 euros.

March, 2006, Milan Central Station - the police have new toys!

In Defense of Milan

Nov 14, 2003

Many travelers to Italy seem to be stuck in a rut: the travel forums are an endless litany of Florence, Rome, and Venice. Personally, I don’t even like Florence, but I’ll save that rant for another time. (I hate crowds, especially crowds of tourists where I’m likely to be thought one of them.) So I like to go to the out-of-the-way places, a few of which are mentioned here on my site.

Poor Milan is very mistreated by would-be tourists. Travelers advise each other to skip it: “There’s nothing worth seeing.€”

I beg to differ. Leonardo da Vinci spent some of his most productive years in Milan; we have a castle (Castello Sforzesco) and the Last Supperto prove it. It took me ten years to get to the Last Supper, and I wish I’d gone sooner. Book tickets for the Last Supper here – most of the year you do need to book in advance.

If you care at all about classical music (including opera and ballet), there’s La Scala.

If you like shopping, Milan is one of the fashion and shopping capitals of the world. It’s great fun simply to walk around and look, even if you’re not buying. See it in Milan first; you’ll be wearing it in the US next year.

Oh, yes, and there’s also the Duomo, one of the world’s largest and most overdone cathedrals; think of it as fractal Gothic. 600 years and they’re still building on.

Milan is also within easy reach of some of the most beautiful places in the world, such as Lake Como.

detail, Milan Duomodetail, Milan Duomo

Shopping

Milan has what is probably the world’s oldest shopping mall, the originalGalleria, in the heart of downtown next to the Duomo. But you won’t find “big box” malls such as they have in the US. There are a few, way outside town, but they are mostly discount stores and not very exciting unless you live here. Way, WAAAAY out of town there is the Serravalle Outlet Mall. I’ve never been there, but it’s been favorably covered in the New York Times.

If you want high-fashion clothing and are willing to pay Milan prices (ouch!), the fashion district is also near downtown, around via Montenapoleone and via della Spiga. The shops in Corso Vittorio Emmanuele are slightly more reasonably-priced, cheaper still is Corso Buenos Aires.

The Economist Guide to Shopping in Milan

detail, Milan Duomo

Imaging in Italy: A Photographic Walking Tour of Rome – Day 5

Friday morning we met to review everyone’s photographs; Tony had selected 50 each, and put them together in a presentation (he had spent a lot of time scanning from prints for those who had been using non-digital cameras). We gasped in delight at each other’s pictures, and, as always, learned from Tony’s comments on them. In some cases, I had caught things I had not consciously seen, or that I hadn’t quite been aiming at.

My digital camera is very slow on the uptake: there’s a considerable lag between pressing the button and the shutter opening, which makes it nearly impossible to grab the right moment. In Viterbo, I had looked down at this geometry of stairs and cobblestone street and liked it, but, with nobody in it, it wasn’t all that interesting. I had turned off my camera and was sitting back enjoying the sunshine when I saw the above girl and her dog approaching across the square. They were moving fast, so it was a miracle that I caught them at all, and sheer dumb luck that I caught them at exactly the right moment.

Here’s another shot of mine that Tony liked:

Are you feeling

I was simply shooting an amusingly mysterious piece of graffiti, but Tony liked the composition; he says the door knocker makes this photo.
Friday afternoon, we all met in Rome’s Trastevere quarter for a snack and final discussion. On the way there, I tried to capture an amusing scene with some typical Italian males.

We wrapped up Friday night with a sumptuous farewell dinner at the rooftop restaurant of the Hotel Forum. We were seated next to the piano, with a talented singer, and near a Singaporean couple celebrating their 31st anniversary. So everyone joined in a rousing chorus of “La donna é mobile,” a fitting end to Tony and Clovis’ week of shepherding around four extremely mobile women and their cameras.

Here’s one of Tony’s shots of me shooting in Viterbo. I spent a lot of time looking up.

Imaging in Italy Day 12344.55 – visit the Imaging in Italy site

Complete photo gallery:

 

Imaging in Italy: A Photographic Walking Tour of Rome – Day 4.5

After a restorative coffee in Piazza Venezia, we walked past Trajan’s Column and Forum, gorgeous in the evening light.

We ate (a lot!) at a nearby restaurant called Massenzio; a bit pricey, but excellent. The spaghetti with shrimp and pecorino di fossa (sheep’s milk cheese aged in caves) was amazing. And we hadporcini again. Then, to aid digestion, we walked to the Fontana di Trevi (no, this is not Tony!):

Fontana di Trevi, Oct 2003

Imaging in Italy Day 12344.55 – visit the Imaging in Italy site

Imaging in Italy: A Photographic Walking Tour of Rome

Oct, 2006 : Tony got a review in the Guardian

I spent the week of October 12-18 in Rome,on Tony Boccaccio’s Imaging in Italy course, a wonderful, fun experience that I heartily recommend to anyone wishing to improve photography skills OR, even if you’re not an experienced photographer, if you want to do something completely different in Rome – and bring home some amazing photographs of your very own.
I was supposed to arrive Sunday afternoon for an introductory session and dinner. Upon reaching Lecco station at 6:30 am, I learned that there was a railway strike, and my train to Milan was two hours late – no chance of making the connection for the Eurostar from Milan to Rome. So I rebooked for the next day, arriving Monday at noon (which required waking up at 4:30 am). Two other course participants had been held up trying to get to Rome from Venezia, so the welcome dinner Sunday was postponed to a welcome lunch on Monday.

Day 1

I got to Hotel Alessandrino just in time for the end of a morning session on Visual Thinking. Then we all picked up our cameras (mine is a Nikon Coolpix 775 digital) and walked down to Saint Peter’s. Along the way, I grabbed the above shot of a man on stairs.

Saint Peter's, Oct 13 03Piazza San Pietro was being decorated and filled with chairs for the Pope’s 25th anniversary bash. This was not a problem, as we were avoiding standing in the middle of the circle and taking postcard shots. Instead, we first walked around the colonnade, looking for different ways of seeing and showing what we saw, with Tony offering suggestions, and taking pictures of us taking pictures. I was fascinated with architecture and geometry, so there was plenty to keep me busy.

We finally got our welcome lunch, at the Antica Taverna (via Monte Giordano 12). The antipasti were excellent, and, of the three pasta dishes we tried, my favorite were the orecchiette (“little ears”) with a sauce made from sweet bell peppers.

 

When we finally staggered away from the table, I accompanied my coursemates to the Spanish Steps, the Keats museum, and on other wanderings.

Imaging in Italy Day 1 2344.55

visit the Imaging in Italy site

Imaging in Italy: A Photographic Walking Tour of Rome – Day 2

Roman cats, Oct 14, 2003

Our first activity Tuesday morning was a review of Monday’s (digital) photos, with expert commentary and pointers from Tony. He went on to talk about other aspects of imaging, but I confess I wasn’t paying as much attention as I should, distracted by these fuzzy little Romans:

After lunch (at an excellent, old-fashionedosteria, da Alfredo e Ada, via Banchi Nuovi 14) we started walking and shooting again,to Piazza Navona. This time I was looking for details:

doorknocker, Rome, Oct 2003

…but was still attracted by architecture:

Pantheon Oct 14, 2003

People were also interesting. We chased the group in the photo at the top down several streets to get them, with their little red hats, in front of the Pantheon.

In the evening we went to the Villa Borghese gardens. The plan was to view the sunset from the Belvedere, but we were so busy making photos of everything else that by the time we got there the sun was completely gone. However, we got some interesting evening views of the Piazza del Popolo below.

We walked down the hill and ate at Ristorante al Vantaggio, good food and a good red wine, something local (Lazio region) made with Montepulciano and Sangiovese grapes.

previous daynext day

Imaging in Italy Day 12344.55 – visit the Imaging in Italy site