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Keeping Cool, Italian Style

My two weeks with the lawyers reminded me of one way in which I have become very unAmerican: I hate air conditioning. Actually, I don’t really mind A/C as such, but the way Americans overdo it. The law and support team from Florida was baffled by the relative lack of air conditioning in Milan’s hot, sticky summer weather (and it’s not even that hot yet). They kept the A/C running at full blast in the conference room where we were working, obliging me to wear long pants and long-sleeved shirts every day – which made the contrast all the more unbearable with the temperature on the streets and the non-A/C train going home to Lecco.

When I was working in the US in the summers, I never got to wear my summer clothing; it was always too damned cold in the office. But at least there I was going to and from work in an air-conditioned car.

So why don’t Italians use A/C more? The trains are in fact supposed to be air-conditioned, but often the A/C simply isn’t working, or doesn’t work very well (other times it works too well – there seems to be no happy medium). At home, it’s just too expensive. We pay twice as much for electricity in Italy as people do in the US. And the grid here won’t stand up to everyone running A/C at the same time: in last summer’s record heat, everyone rushed out to buy air conditioners. The nation’s electrical system overloaded, so we had unannounced rolling blackouts, with people stuck in elevators and so on, and nobody got to enjoy their new air conditioners very much. Personally, we use ceiling fans and, when it’s really awful, standing fans as well.

Red-Eared Sliders in da House!

We don’t have a normal array of pets. We have a horse (if you can call a horse a pet; at any rate, he doesn’t live with us), and we have two turtles, Poirot and Marple. We don’t know their sexes, so they’re not M. Poirot and Miss Marple, just Poirot and Marple.
We do know their species: red-eared sliders, originating along the Mississippi and in the American south, the most common kind of pet store turtle. I did some Internet research after we got them and, had I realized beforehand what I was in for, I probably would have nixed the idea. But we have them now, and I’m responsible for keeping them alive so, unlike the 99.9% of baby red-eared sliders sold worldwide, these two are still thriving after three years. They’re about five inches long now, and they have every chance of living their allotted one score and ten years, and reaching over 14″ in length. By which time, we had better be living in a house with a garden so we can keep them outdoors in a pond most of the year.

For now, they live in a glass tank with a plastic island they can crawl up on, to bask in the rays of their special ultra-violet turtle lamp. And, when it’s warm, we let them have the crawl of the house for exercise and to dry off for a bit (something this species needs to do).

Gender Identity Crises: Can’t They Tell I’m a Woman?

Back in August I wrote about the difficulties of being named Deirdré, which no one can spell or pronounce. An additional problem arose when I began dealing with large numbers of people online: many people don’t know whether it’s a male or female name. The default assumption was that I was male, perhaps because people “met” me in the context of technology, and assumed that a technically-capable person had to be male (that’s a rant for another time).

So I got used to being addressed in email as “Mr. Straughan;” it’s far better than some things I’ve been called online. My friend and colleague Adrian, meanwhile, had to contend with the fact that, in America, Adrian is assumed to be a female name (thanks to the “Rocky” movies). This Adrian is British, and male. On one memorable occasion, a member of a focus group of Roxio software users began (without prompting) to sing the praises of those wonderful online reps the company had, Deirdré and Adrian. Which was very nice, except that he thought that I was a man and Adrian a woman!

At least people meeting me in person usually figure out that I’m female, what with my two big attributes sticking out in front. But, when I was in Benares in 1985-86, even this certainty deserted me. I had very short hair at the time, and was a lot thinner than I am now. For most of the year, I wore salwar-kameez (traditional Indian women’s clothing, which is loose around the thighs but tight-fitting up top) and there was no question as to my sex. But in winter, to stay warm, I wore western clothing: baggy canvas trousers and a bulky sweater.

While travelling back from Kulu-Manali by bus, I was delayed in a small town where university students had blocked the road to protest something or other. I was standing outside the bus, waiting for something to happen, when a young man came bustling up, probably intent on telling me all about the noble cause, whatever it was. “Hello, Sir!” he shouted. Then, as he got a little closer, his face suddenly fell. “Oh, excuse me, Madam,” he muttered, and slunk away.

Soon afterwards, I was back in Benares, buying something in a shop. A little old Muslim man with thick glasses engaged me in conversation (in Hindi). I don’t remember what it was about, but we had been chatting for about ten minutes when he suddenly peered at me intently through his glasses. “Oh, excuse me,” he said. “If I had realized you were a woman, I would never have spoken to you.”

Other People’s Bookshelves

In the course of looking for a place to live in Lecco, we’ve seen the insides of many strangers’ homes, up for sale (for the moment we’ve ended up renting, but that’s another story).

The décor was extremely variable. Many Italian homes run to a type I think of as “classic” Italian: heavy, dark wood furniture, with family photos in silver frames, and lots of silver gewgaws of the type that you give as gifts when you want to give something costly but don’t know the recipient’s tastes (I loathe these things: too ugly to display, too expensive to give or throw away).

We did see one place stunningly decorated with masks and sculptures from all over Africa; the owner has travelled there a lot. The interior design of this house was also stunning, with an iron spiral staircase going up to a loft office under the peak of the roof. But the furniture was a little too well-matched for my taste – and it was green! As was the kitchen. What is it with green in this country? Do we have to pay homage to the olive in everything?

Another place had furniture clearly designed by an artist and custom-built for the house. It was made of laminated layers of different woods, cut away in strange angles and curves and polished to a sensual smoothness that made you want to stroke it. If the furniture had been included in the (exorbitant) price, I’d have wanted the place on the spot.

What I found surprising in most of the houses we saw was the lack of books. I admit that we probably err on the side of excess. But I’m always suspicious, and somewhat uncomfortable, in a house with no books. You can tell a lot about a family by what’s on their shelves, and you can always find something to talk about. In one friend’s home, I could see instantly that someone was a classicist. In another, it was downright hilarious how many books we had in common, right across the spectrum from science fiction and fantasy to Indian novels.

Firefly: Joss Whedon’s Space Opera

If you never saw Joss Whedon‘s short-lived series “Firefly” when it was running on US television last fall, now’s your chance. It’s, um, well, hard to explain… a science-fiction western? It takes place 500 years in the future, in a universe populated only by human beings (so far as we know), just after a civil war reminiscent of the American Civil War. Our hero, Captain Mal Reynolds, was on the losing side; now he does his best to keep his beat-up starship and crew alive, taking on whatever work they can find – legal or il-. The crew includes a variety of types and backgrounds; I won’t say more so as not to spoil anything. Suffice to say that, thanks to sharp dialog, great stories, and very high production values, you come very quickly to care about these people and what’s going to happen to them. No, you don’t have to be a Buffy fan to like it.

The show was untimely cut off by Fox after only 12 episodes, in spite of a large and growing following. Three additional episodes were shown in the UK; all 15 will soon be available on DVD, with commentary on every episode, and probably some nice extras as well. Buy the DVDs

Best news of all: the Firefly movie, Serenity, with all the same cast, is fantastic, and will soon be available on DVD.