Shopping in Delhi: New Discoveries

I have written before about shopping in Delhi; here I’ll add some more details and tips, organized by location. It’s a good idea to plan your shopping days geographically, as Delhi is very spread out and traffic is horrendous
– it can take over an hour to get from one place to another, worse during evening rush hour, which begins around 3:30 and ends at 9 pm!

Connaught Place

The multiple concentric circles of Connaught Place, in the heart of New Delhi, are going increasingly upscale (at least in parts), perhaps in response to competition from all the shiny new malls further out. There are shops for Levi’s and Lee’s jeans, Van Heusen and other American brands, and even some Italian mid-level fashion brands. At the moment, it’s still possible to buy some very nice clothing at lower prices than you’d find in Europe or the US – though it’s also possible to spend just as much! Depending on the relative values of the rupee and the dollar, this advantage is probably destined to disappear.

Connaught Place can be annoying, however. You can’t walk a yard without being accosted by touts: “Come look my shop”. For some reason the Kashmiri shop owners are the most aggressive; they manage to completely turn me off the mere idea of buying anything Kashmiri, no matter how lovely.

(A TV ad exploits the annoyance factor of many Indian shopkeepers to suggest that you shop on eBay instead!)

Near Connaught Place you will also find the Central Cottage Industries Emporium, and the long row of state emporiums, which I observed in passing seem to have been upgraded in the last few years, but I didn’t get to them this trip.

Greater Kailash N-Block

Full Circle Bookstore: A nice selection of coffee-table and other books on everything Indian, plus music, DVDs, and a nice coffee shop on the top floor.

Fabindia: Shops on both sides of the square. Hand-woven, printed, etc. cottons and silks for home and wear. Fabindia also now has an interesting line of organic cosmetics and foods, including spices, grains, jams, chutneys, etc.

Episode: Beautiful silver items for the home, including elegant modern Ganesh statuettes.

The Next Shop: Some fascinating home decor items, most of which, unfortunately, are too heavy or too fragile for me to carry home in a suitcase. But here’s where I first discovered the range of incredibly designed stainless steel and porcelain dinner and serving ware from Magppie:

“This Indian enterprise is an offshoot of a 30 year old family run business of rolling stainless steel.” It’s a fascinating synthesis: the design team, at least as presented on their website, is entirely foreign, but many of the products reflect Indian sensibilities as well as Indian uses and traditions. Beautiful stuff!

We later found an entire Magppie store at a mall in Gurgaon. If only they offered international shipping…

Khan Market

I only knew Khan Market for Anokhi, the home of fine hand-printed cloth items. Anokhi has now split into two at that site, one on each corner of the block for home furnishings and clothing.

Khan Market has some other interesting shops, including a Biotique, which I noticed because there was an autographed photo of Johnny Depp in the window thanking them for the almond kajal that he wore in “Pirates of the Caribbean.” So I went in and bought some, and it is indeed very nice kajal.

Gurgaon

This suburb which used to be a village is home to many multinationals as well as bedroom community for the city. It now boasts a long row of shopping malls, some specialized in housewares or clothing, others a bit of a mix. As you can see in the photo above, many of the brands are familiar!

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Delhi Sunday Morning

I’m sitting on a rattan footstool in order to be close to the modem – the wifi doesn’t seem to be working, but there’s an Ethernet cable, and the ADSL connection is good. Outside the window is a small, presumably ancient tomb, I have no idea whose, another of Delhi’s many semi-abandoned Mughal relics.

But the patch of land it sits on seems to be protected: there are trees enough to attract bright green, long-tailed parrots, and the little chipmunks whose backs are said to be striped because Lord Ram stroked them in thanks for helping build the bridge to Lanka.

We arrived in Delhi late Friday night on the Shatabdi Express from Dehra Dun, along with about 200 Woodstock students “Going Down” to return to their far-flung homes, and 14 staff members who were responsible for getting them onto myriad flights. A Woodstock staffer’s job emphatically does not end with the end of the semester! Some will have been on duty for 24 hours before they saw off the last of their charges yesterday afternoon – even longer if departures were delayed, as they so often are in Delhi’s foggy winter.

Fortunately for us, we only had to go across town to Green Park, where we are staying in a guest house/apartment belonging to a Woodstock alumna. It took us a while to find the place – our hired driver, being from Rajasthan, doesn’t know every corner of Delhi. But, then, I’m not sure anyone does.

The apartment is a third-floor walkup, nicely, if simply, furnished. The location is fairly quiet at night, though I suspect that we are due for some disturbance as the neighbors have had a huge awning put up for some sort of celebration. This morning I was awakened around 7:30 by steady drumming. Seems an odd time for a wedding rite (and also the wrong time of year for weddings), so I wonder what this is about.

As the city wakes up, more sounds impinge. A man on a bicycle pedals through the neighborhood crying: Kabadi kabadi kabadi (“second-hand goods” – he’s looking to buy them, including scrap clothing and paper). Another shouts Koel – I don’t know what that means. Cars make strange chirps and whistles to alert us that they are backing up. But mostly right now I hear parrots, mynahs, and pigeons against a muted rumble of traffic (relatively less – today is Sunday).
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Delhi wildlife: can you spot two green parrots and a stripey squirrel?

I’m breakfasting on fresh papaya, bought from a well-stocked fruit stall around the corner, and Nescafé. Yes, this latter is a terrible comedown for a long-term resident of Italy, but India’s coffee culture is still developing. When I go out I’ll find a Barista or Café Coffee Day and have a decent espresso – Barista was recently bought by Italy’s coffee giant, Lavazza, a brand we drink at home.

I would be happy to sit around and work and listen to the morning symphony, but I’m cramped and chilly. Delhi is much colder than I expected at this time of year, but everything here is built for the fiercely hot weather of summer. Rooms which are doubtless delightfully cool and airy then are shivering cold now, with no possibility of heating. The shops, on the other hand, tend to be too warm without their habitual air conditioning. I’m going shopping!

Woodstock School Arts Evening

We’re in Delhi now (Dec 15th), but what with everything (including a day without any Internet at all, probably due to the weather in Mussoorie), it’s taken me a week to get this video completed and uploaded.

The last Saturday of the semester, students and staff mellowed out with an evening of performing and static arts. I completely failed to get photos of the paintings, drawings, sculpture, etc. – my apologies to the artists. But I did get video of most of the performances, in spite of technical difficulties…

Fashion Statement

Swatch watch "Eve"This Swatch was my major fashion statement for several years, until (as you can see) I wore it out. The design isn’t easy to understand at a casual glance, so people would ask me about it: “Is that a mermaid?”

“No,” I would explain: “It’s Eve, gathering apples.” (As for the snake, take a close look at the strap…)

It goes with my theme song, by Cole Porter from his show, Nymph Errant.

Experiment

Before you leave these portals

To meet less fortunate mortals,

There’s just one final message

I would give to you.

You all have learned reliance

On the sacred teachings of science,

So I hope through life you never will decline,

In spite of philistine defiance,

To do what all good scientists do:

 

Experiment!

Make it your motto day and night.

Experiment!

And it will lead you to the light.

The apple on the top of the tree

Is never too high to achieve,

So take an example from Eve –

Experiment!

 

Be curious,

Though interfering friends may frown.

Get furious

At each attempt to hold you down.

If this advice you always employ,

The future can offer you infinite joy

And merriment,

Experiment!

And you’ll see…

The End of Another Semester

The weather is cold, damp, and grey – it’s definitely time to leave the Himalayan foothills for warmer climes.

This week saw the last two days of exams Monday and Tuesday, then everyone had a day off to pack on Wednesday. Midlands (the high school girls’ dorm) was a chaos of trunks, clothing drying on racks, and shrieking, giggling girls:

Woodstock School girls' dorm

Ross, as a SAGE student, was granted a trunk to put her stuff in, but this wasn’t sufficient. One of the suitcases she arrived with had gone moldy in storage, and I’m using the other one, so by special dispensation she was decreed a second trunk.

Woodstock School girls' dorm

All the rooms must be completely emptied during vacations, I presume so that they can be thoroughly cleaned. And many people will be changing roommates. Ross was actually well-matched with her roommate this semester – somebody evidently took notice of her answer to the school questionnaire that she is very messy! Next semester she plans to room with a tidier friend; either Ross will reform, or they’ll drive each other crazy. Such are the lessons of boarding school…

Today was the last day of classes. Tonight there’s a farewell dinner at Alter Ridge, then Midlands and Hostel are having separate parties (why separate? don’t ask me – I’m told the boys are really lame these days…). Late tomorrow morning there’s a final assembly, then the students will walk down to the New Road to climb onto buses for Dehra Dun, to catch the Shatabdi Express to Delhi at 5 pm. Their luggage already left for Delhi by truck today.

Ross and I, since we have to deal with our luggage personally, will be taking a taxi down to join the train. I suspect they might as well call tomorrow’s train “The Woodstock Express”.

what are your Going Down Day memories?

Deirdré Straughan on Italy, India, the Internet, the world, and now Australia