An Over-the-Top Italian Restaurant in the US

I usually avoid Italian restaurants in the US – why bother, when I can get far better Italian food from the grocery store at home? But during my last US trip I did end up going with friends for takeout to an Italian chain restaurant, Buca di Beppo (whose name is already funny to an Italian speaker: it means “Beppo’s hole'”). The scallop-and-shrimp pasta was more than decent, with just enough spice to make it interesting. The grilled vegetables were good. The garlic bread, while not resembling anything you’d ever see in Italy, was tasty.

But what really got me was the decor. You just never see anything like this in Italy. Never.

For starters: the restaurant is hung with banners and scarves from several different Italian football teams (besides Inter and Roma seen below, there were also AC Milan and others in other rooms).

This just ain’t gonna happen in Italy. You will occasionally see places, more often bars than restaurants, decorated with memorabilia from ONE football team – the one that the owner supports (sometimes defiantly, in the teeth of local prejudices). No one would dream of hanging a banner for an opposing team: that would risk bringing bad luck (sfiga) to his team, or would be like a devout Catholic putting a garlanded Ganesh in his place of business!

Dan Maslowski

(No, that is not the proud owner of the restaurant- it’s my friend Dan.)

Learn Italian in Song: Com’é Profondo il Mare

Lucio Dalla, 1978

Com’é Profondo il Mare

How Deep is the Sea

Siamo noi, siamo in tanti We are us, we are many
Ci nascondiamo di notte we hide ourselves at night
Per paura degli automobilisti for fear of the automobilists
Dei linotipisti Of the linotypists
Siamo gatti neri We are black cats
Siamo pessimisti we are pessimists
Siamo i cattivi pensieri we are the bad thoughts
Non abbiamo da mangiare We don’t have anything to eat
Com’è profondo il mare How deep is the sea
Com’è profondo il mare How deep is the sea
Babbo, che eri un gran cacciatore Dad, you who were a great hunter
Di quaglie e di fagiani of quail and pheasant
Caccia via queste mosche Chase away these flies
Che non mi fanno dormire that don’t let me sleep
Che mi fanno arrabbiare that make me angry
Com’è profondo il mare How deep is the sea
Com’è profondo il mare How deep is the sea
E’ inutile It’s useless
Non c’è più lavoro There’s no more work
Non c’è più decoro there’s no more decorum
Dio o chi per lui God, or someone in his place,
Sta cercando di dividerci is trying to divide us
Di farci del male to hurt us
Di farci annegare to drown us
Com’è profondo il mare How deep is the sea
Com’è profondo il mare How deep is the sea
Con la forza di un ricatto With the force of a ransom
L’uomo diventò qualcuno Man became someone
Resuscitò anche i morti He raised even the dead
Spalancò prigioni Opened wide prisons
Bloccò sei treni Blocked six trains
Con relativi vagoni with their respective cars
Innalzò per un attimo il povero He lifted the poor man for a moment
Ad un ruolo difficile da mantenere to a role difficult to maintain
Poi lo lasciò cadere Then let him fall
A piangere e a urlare to cry and scream
Solo in mezzo al mare alone in the midst of the sea
Com’è profondo il mare How deep is the sea.
Poi da solo l’urlo Then, by itself, the scream
Diventò un tamburo became a drum
E il povero come un lampo and the poor man like a lightning bolt
Nel cielo scuro In a dark sky
Cominciò una guerra began a war
Per conquistare to conquer
Quello scherzo di terra that joke of earth
Che il suo grande cuore which his great heart
Doveva coltivare should have cultivated
Com’è profondo il mare How deep is the sea
Com’è profondo il mare How deep is the sea
Ma la terra But the earth
Gli fu portata via was taken away from him
Compresa quella rimasta addosso including that which was still on him
Fu scaraventato he was flung
In un palazzo,in un fosso into a palace, into a pit
Non ricordo bene I don’t remember well
Poi una storia di catene Then a story of chains
Bastonate beatings
E chirurgia sperimentale and experimental surgery
Com’è profondo il mare How deep is the sea
Com’è profondo il mare How deep is the sea
Intanto un mistico In the meanwhile a mystic
Forse un’aviatore perhaps an aviator
Inventò la commozione Invented sympathy
E rimise d’accordo tutti And got everyone to agree again
I belli con i brutti The beautiful with the ugly
Con qualche danno per i brutti At some cost to the ugly
Che si videro consegnare Who saw themselves given
Un pezzo di specchio a piece of mirror
Così da potersi guardare so they could look at themselves
Com’è profondo il mare How deep is the sea
Com’è profondo il mare How deep is the sea
Frattanto i pesci In the meantime the fish
Dai quali discendiamo tutti from whom we are all descended
Assistettero curiosi looked on, curious,
Al dramma collettivo at the collective drama
Di questo mondo of this world
Che a loro indubbiamente Which to them undoubtedly
Doveva sembrar cattivo must have seemed wicked
E cominciarono a pensare And they began to think
Nel loro grande mare In their great sea
Com’è profondo il mare how deep is the sea
Nel loro grande mare In their great sea
Com’è profondo il mare how deep is the sea
E’ chiaro It’s clear
Che il pensiero dà fastidio that thought causes irritation
Anche se chi pensa Even if the one who thinks
E’ muto come un pesce is mute as a fish
Anzi è un pesce In fact, is a fish
E come pesce è difficile da bloccare And as a fish, is difficult to stop
Perchè lo protegge il mare because the sea protects him
Com’è profondo il mare How deep is the see
Certo Certainly
Chi comanda he who is in charge
Non è disposto a fare distinzioni poetiche is not disposed to make poetic distinctions
Il pensiero come l’oceano Thought, like the ocean
Non lo puoi bloccare you cannot block
Non lo puoi bloccare you cannot block
Così stanno bruciando il mare So they are burning the sea
Così stanno uccidendo il mare so they are killing the sea
Così stanno umiliando il mare so they are humiliating the sea
Così stanno piegando il mare so they are bending the sea [to their will].
if you find this useful and want more, let me know!

Milan Cow Parade 2007

above: Pippi Longcow with a junior art critic – Piazza Castello

Street art didn’t fare so well in Milan. The newspapers reported that Milan set a record for the number of cows vandalized, particularly during the night that the AC Milan football club won the European championships for the seventh time. The poor cows were variously burned, thrown into a fountain, or simply taken away. They had been intended to be sold to raise money for charity. Alternative ways to raise this money are now being explored.

Here are a few I managed to salvage photographically.

metro station at Cairoli

 

La cow é mobile, qual pium al vento…

 

via Dante

Pandecena Milano June ’07 – In Which a Cunning Plot is Hatched

Famed Italian blogger Luca Conti (pictured at top right, showing off his Nokia to Sara Piperita) has pulled off what many bloggers dream of (and quite a few actually do, in other parts of the world): making a living by blogging. Or, at least, managing to get paid for various kinds of consulting (as a result of his blogging) while also running around the country blogging various interesting events he now gets invited to, plus other perks like fancy cellphones. The Italian PR world has figured out that bloggers are influential, and is courting them assiduously – or at least a small fraction of them. I am jealous that Luca’s job now includes boat trips on the Amalfi coast but, hey, it couldn’t happen to a nicer guy. (And I’ve got nothing to complain about: my own professional life is shaping up interestingly lately…)

Whenever Luca comes to town there’s a dinner (Pandecena), and these are excellent occasions for social and professional networking (aka lots of conversation with people I enjoy). This dinner was particularly well-populated because it had been scheduled for the night between the two days of a conference called Web 2.0 Oltre (Web 2.0 – Beyond) being held in Milan at which many of the “usual suspects” of the Italian blogosphere were panelists, speakers, etc. No one in the room had actually paid to attend the conference, for the excellent reason that it cost 1600 euros to do so!

I’ve been using Twitter lately (not today – stuck til I get my password fixed), which breeds an odd sense of familiarity with people I’ve barely met, and, having seen something day-to-day of how their minds work, it’s fun to then spend some face time. One such person at this event was Marco Formento, but the photos I got of him were scary…

I also enjoyed meeting Madga of Spotanatomy, a fun and insightful blog about advertising that has been referenced on this site before.

Quintarelli, Orban

^ A woman I didn’t meet, Emanuele Quintarelli, David Orban, and Marco Palazzo of DueSpaghi, an Italian social network about restaurants. The structure of the site is due to be translated soon, but that doesn’t help with the meat of the matter, the actual reviews. Translation is a thorny problem for websites. It’s so hard (and expensive) to do it well.

occhiali

^ Marco had fun with some PR stickers.

^ Thomas Christel, a Chicagoan now living in San Benedetto del Tronto, gets tagged by Lele. How one earth did he end up in San Benedetto, you may ask? (And I did.) The usual story: married into it. But he’s managed to keep a high-tech career going, in addition to running a B&B: Thomas is an executive for Yoo+, an online project management application now in beta testing.

^ I can never resist taking pictures of Fabrizio (Biccio) Ulisse – he’s so damned cute!

^ Emanuele and Luca Mascaro manhandling the spumante, courteously supplied by Reed Business.

I did have a bone to pick with Emanuele. He was (one of? chief?) organizer of the Web 2.0 Oltre conference, which somehow did not manage to feature EVEN ONE WOMAN speaker in two days of talks and panels. I had noticed (and been irritated by) this lack on the Web 2.0 Oltre site months ago, but didn’t know then who was responsible.

later – Emanuele tells me there were three women on the stage: Daniela Cerrato (who was in the original program and I must have overlooked her – my bad), Anna Masera (who was added after I saw the program), and a manager from Renault who spoke about that company’s recent push into Second Life.

I had had a battibecco* with Emanuele a few months ago in his own blog comments about the Italian Web 2.0 boys’ club he (and others) organized. He now came over to ask whether I was happy with the presenza femminile at this dinner.

I counted. Maybe ten women out of 40 people. Not great.

“Is that our fault?” he and David Orban asked.

No, not directly, obviously – anyone who wished could join this dinner. But the women aren’t coming to these events, and we need to figure out why. For starters, about that conference of yours…

Emanuele said something about not knowing any women who could have spoken.

“I’ve been online for 25 years,” I said. “And am now a Senior Web Producer for Sun Microsystems.” At which point he asked for my card.

I probably came off as bitter and aggressive in this exchange – a woman making her points strongly always risks being labelled a bitch. So be it.

I don’t believe that Emanuele (or Lele, who also recently had a restricted-invitation event to organize, and somehow ended up with very few women) is a chauvinist (or, as Italians would say, anti-feminist). But there’s a dangerous mindset in which, when you’re drawing up a list of influencers and experts to consult, invite, etc., somehow the people who come to your mind are all male. Women aren’t consciously excluded from your thinking, but… they don’t end up on your list either, do they? And that perpetuates a vicious cycle in which men are publicly identified as the experts, and women remain on the margins, waiting to be invited to the dance.

Well, I went to a school where anybody who wanted to, got out on the dance floor and danced – both literally and metaphorically. And I am by now too old and wise and bitchy to play the wallflower.

So, ladies, it’s time to do something about it. In October I will be hosting Web Women Weekend, at my home in Lecco. It will be an opportunity for girl geeks / technedonne / web women to get together, have fun, and figure out how we can support each other. (Invitation only, so, if you’re a woman in technology in Italy, let me hear from you.)

And that will be something to celebrate.

^ Coda: I took this picture just so we could start a nasty rumor that Luca only organizes these dinners because he makes money on them.
; ) – just kidding!

* battibecco – “a clash of beaks” – umm… birdfight?

What do you think? how do we get more visibility for women in technology in Italy?

Growing Up in Boarding School

Though Rossella is by and large a wonderful young woman and a joy to be around, she does have her teenage moments and attitudes. She doesn’t like to wake up in the morning, her floor is usually strewn with clothing, she is undisciplined about studying… I sometimes reflect ruefully on the fact that my parents missed out on many of the pains and joys of my adolescence: I spent it most of it away at Woodstock School.

The idea of sending your child away to school is anathema to many parents (and perfectly normal to others, depending on culture, class, and family history), but it can be a fun and useful experience for the teens themselves. They become self-regulating and independent because they simply have no choice. Many common teen habits cannot be tolerated at boarding school – some forms of behavior would simply be impossible to manage en masse.

You Gotta Get Up…

Living in a dorm means responding to bells: bells to wake up, bells to go to meals, bells for showers, bells for lights-out, bells for emergencies, and of course there are the school bells throughout the day. When the morning bell rings, you had better roll out of bed on your own, because there’s no mother there to keep coming back to nag you. If you persist in lying in bed, you’ll miss breakfast, and if you’re late for school, there are consequences. Needless to say, this is useful discipline for later working life.

Midlands bulletin board

the routines of dorm life

Keep Your Room Tidy

When I was at Woodstock, dorm rooms were inspected once or twice weekly and, if we left them messy, we got demerits that could add up to gating (a punishment that meant not being allowed to leave the dorms for anything other than classes for weeks or months) or restricted to campus (no bazaar on Saturday!). Being thus forced to clean up after ourselves was good training for any teenager, especially those who had servants to do everything at home (as was common in Asia at the time).

(Tidiness doesn’t seem to be quite as enforced as it was in my day. At least they matched Ross with an equally messy roommate.)

Manage Your Money

My parents never had to argue with me about pocket money. We had a (very small) set allowance at school – I think the maximum allowed during my senior year was 100 rupees a month. This amount was equal for everybody, and there was (at least in theory) no way to beg parents for extra if we had spent it all before the end of the month. In that situation, you learn to spend carefully – another very useful life lesson.

Manage Your Studies

I suppose all boarding schools have specific times set aside for studying. At Woodstock in my day it was 1.5 or 2 hours after dinner, four nights a week – if I remember correctly, we had a shorter study hall on Wednesdays to allow time for a social activity afterwards. Any free periods during the school day were also designated as study halls, which you did in the library under supervision (it was a Senior priviledge to be allowed to study anywhere on campus).

If you were on the A or B honor roll (3.5 or 4.0 grade point average), you could do evening study hall in your room rather than in the dining hall. A teacher would come around once or twice to check that we were each in our own rooms, but otherwise it was up to us to use the time wisely.

Practicalities

Even if we weren’t used to having chores at home, we had to take care of some things at school ourselves, such as laundry. Not washing it ourselves, but bundling it up each week for the dhobi (washerman), with a checklist of how many of each item we were sending, then checking it in again and chasing down anything that was missing when the bundle came back. If we needed clean clothes next week, we knew to make sure they got into the wash this week. (Or, preferably, the week before – clothing takes a long time to dry in the monsoon.)

We had to take care of our clothes and our possessions, replace things that needed replacing, etc. – again, no mom around to notice that all your socks have holes in them and your t-shirts have all gone gray.

Communal Living

Living in a dormitory with 100+ other kids, well, you’d better learn to get along with people. For starters, we all had at least one roommate, and the rooms weren’t huge, so you had to respect others’ personal space, and learn to find privacy when you could. I tended to need a lot of time to myself, so most days I would go straight down to the dorms after school, when others were off doing sports etc., so I had at least my room to myself.

Survival Skills

Here I’m thinking mainly of food – an obsession of growing teens, the more so in any institutional cooking situation where the meals are… well, probably not like Mom makes. The downside is that you learn to eat fast, so that, if there is anything good on your plate, you can go back for seconds before stocks run out. You can often spot a boarding school survivor by this behavior: he or she is the one waiting impatiently for a post-dinner coffee while the rest of the party are still on their salads!

The upside is that, while you deeply appreciate good food, you’re not a fussy eater, and can survive on just about anything when you have to.

The Rules

Living with parents, teens are always testing boundaries: “Why do I have to be home at a certain time? What do you mean I’m too young to go to the disco?” This struggle for independence is an important part of teen development, but exhausting for parents, who receive conflicting advice from the entire world (“Be stricter! Be more understanding!”) and may not agree even between themselves on what’s to be done.

A boarding school has set rules that everyone knows and must live by. It’s clear why the rules need to exist, even when they are more restrictive than you might have at home: it’s far more difficult to keep track of several hundred teenagers than one or two.

At school, there’s not much leeway to argue about the rules, and the penalties for infractions are clearly stated and (usually) fairly applied. So it’s up to you, the student, to decide whether to risk breaking the rules, and you know exactly what to expect if you get caught. Boarding school in this way is a good introduction to adult life: you learn early that you are responsible for your actions.

The Results

A young person leaving boarding school for college is likely to be far more mature in many practical ways than his or her peers who come straight from home. One Woodstock classmate of mine said that he felt many of his college classmates wasted their first year simply getting accustomed to being on their own, whereas he was able to be productive from Day 1.

Last but not least, boarding school teaches us humility: instead of being Mom and Dad’s pampered darling, we each have to pull our own weight in the community – which includes aiding and comforting our peers when they need it. We learn to take care of those around us, and that it is natural and human and right to do so.

And that’s not a bad lesson to be starting life with.

Deirdré Straughan on Italy, India, the Internet, the world, and now Australia