India 2005

About the Trip

I finally had the opportunity to take my daughter Rossella to India, something we’ve both been looking forward to for a long time…

Photos in this section are by Ross unless otherwise noted.

Itinerary

July:

26 depart Milan after overnight with friends in the city. Mumbai flooded by 94 cm of rain in 24 hours – good thing we didn’t fly into Mumbai as originally planned!

27 arrive Delhi 2:30 am, sleep, buy local SIM card for cellphone, museum, shopping

28 train to Dehra Dun, taxi to Mussoorie

29 in Mussoorie, exploring the town and ordering clothes made, lunch with Yuti, dinner party at Sharon & Steve’s

30 visit to dorms, Ross spends afternoon with Dorien and Nora, lazy evening at home

31 back to town, buy more cloth for Ross’ jacket, dinner with Sujatha and family and Mrs. Kapadia

August:

1 work on school stuff, dinner at Jefferys’

2 walk over the hill, dinner at Tenzing’s

3 assembly at school, taxi to Dehra Dun a day too early for our train (oops), spend the night at Hotel President

4 morning in Dehra Dun, train to Delhi, brief night in hotel

5 early morning train to Jaipur, collapse at hotel (Samode Haveli)

6 morning sightseeing – Amber Fort (with elephant ride), shopping, beauty treatments, Chowki Dhani

7 morning sightseeing – Jantr Mantr and City Palace, shopping: handicrafts

8 shopping, Teej Festival

9 lazy morning, evening train to Delhi

10 fancy multi-Asian lunch at Imperial Hotel, coffee with Nitin, overnight train to Mumbai

11 arrive Mumbai early morning, car to Gordon House hotel, shopping, evening celebration with Woodstock friends for Ross’ 16th birthday

12 shopping, late lunch with Sanjay, picked up by Shilpin, ride along dock side of Mumbai, dinner at Deepu and Shilpin’s

13 shopping with Yuti, Ross’ manicure at Taj Hotel, dinner with Yuti and Sumeet (Chinese)

14 (Japanese) lunch with Rachna and friends

15 drop off luggage with Sumeet and Yuti, lunch and afternoon with Deepu, back to Yuti and Sumeet’s, dinner, cricket on TV, departure for airport (in flood-damp car)

go

The Soul of a School

Woodstock School was founded in 1854, for the daughters of American Protestant missionaries and of British civil and military personnel in India. Like most British and American schools of its time, it was founded on a strongly Christian ethic and tradition, aiming to instill Christian values and knowledge in its pupils. Woodstock girls were trained to become good wives and mothers, teachers, and missionaries. Given the context and the times, no one thought this objectionable.

The school has always been Christian, but it also has a long history of welcoming children of every race and creed, a tradition which has been vigorously defended by some of its most influential administrators.

In my day (1977-81), Woodstock had just begun a fundamental shift, still not entirely played out today, from “Christian” to “International Christian.” This was the solution determined by Bob Alter (principal, and himself a Woodstock grad, missionary, and a Presbyterian minister) to the rapid decline in the numbers of missionaries in India. Woodstock’s “natural” student body was disappearing, and, for the school to survive, new types of students had to be recruited. My own class of ’81 was 1/3 North American (mostly “mish kids” – missionaries’ childen), 1/3 Indian, and 1/3 “other.”

The staff, however, were still primarily mission-supported. Woodstock salaries were so miserable that, for an American, British, New Zealand, etc. family to be able to come, they needed other funding. Various missions paid travel and moving expenses, and sometimes topped up salaries. A later innovation was for money to be put into a fund back home against the family’s return, so that they’d have some hope of being able to afford college for their own children in their native countries.

To come to Woodstock to teach was therefore a huge commitment and, indeed, leap of faith. A few made the leap because they wanted to “convert the heathen,” but most, while they actively sought a Christian and/or international environment, were primarily interested in the teaching. They were highly motivated and effective teachers (they had to be), and it’s a rare alumnus who does not remember with affection and gratitude at least one special teacher. The staff, in turn, seem to feel amply rewarded: many have said that Woodstock students were the best they ever taught (and not just academically).

Still, there was a mismatch between the almost entirely Christian staff and the not-so-Christian-anymore student body. There were religious tensions in the school in my time, as there had been before and perhaps always will be. Speaking for myself, I arrived at the school a raving atheist, and nothing in four years of being preached at changed my mind. Very few students have been converted to Christianity during their Woodstock years; if proselytizing was ever the aim, it has failed miserably. But I don’t think conversion was ever anyone’s primary goal at Woodstock, nor, in spite of occasional staff excesses, was it ever on the school’s agenda.

Symbolic of Woodstock’s commitment to Christianity in my day was weekly chapel attendance, required of all students. I argued and won the point that, as a non-believer, this was a waste of time for me, and I should be allowed to non-disruptively read a book during the service. (I was once told off by a senior for reading “The Passions of the Mind” – he probably thought it was a dirty book!) The services weren’t wholly wasted on me; I enjoyed the singing, especially the least-politically-correct hymn in the book, “Onward, Christian Soldiers” (music by Arthur Sullivan – what’s not to like?).

Services were led by the school chaplain, but, given the variety and intensity of religious feeling among the staff, there was plenty of participation to keep things non-denominational (though strictly Protestant).

Many students largely ignored the content of chapel, seeing it, at best, as an excuse to dress up and be seen, otherwise merely a dull period of time to be passed in whispered conversation (when we could get away with it) or passing notes.

But even chapel was destined for change. During our senior year, our senior privilege of not going to chapel every Sunday was diluted by the fact that chapel became “non-compulsory” for all high school grades, except for one or two required services per semester. Instead, we had brief devotions during the thrice-weekly school assemblies, a tradition which continues to this day.

A further innovation in our time was allowing devout students of other religions to go to temples and mosques in town, especially during important festivals.

Religious education was (and is) required through high school; in 9th grade we studied the Old Testament, in 10th grade the New. All I remember of either is a skit in which Chris, referring to Teeran, said “My brother [Esau] is an hairy man” – which Teeran certainly was! In 11th and 12th grade we could choose more in-depth Bible studies, or World Religions, or Ethics.

Today [2005], the requirements are:

  • Introduction to World Religions (Grade 9; 1 semester, 1/4 credit)
  • The Historical Development of Religious Ideas (Grade 10; 1 semester, 1/4 credit)
  • 11th and 12th Grade Courses (Students are required to take at least one of the following semester-length courses each year. All carry 1/4 credit. Students choose one option from Group A and one from Group B):

    Group A Courses (specifically related to the Bible or Christianity):
    Introduction to Christianity
    The Gospel of John
    Old Testament Survey
    Paul’s Epistles

    Group B Courses (related to religion in a general sense):
    The Search for Meaning in Life
    Religions of Indian Origin
    Religions of Semitic Origin
    Contemporary Social and Ethical Issues


If I were a student at Woodstock today, I would probably argue against having to take any specifically Christian courses at all. However, given that required study of Christianity has been pared down to one semester, I can live with it. Christianity is a large part of many of the world’s cultures today, so it’s valuable for students of all religions to know something about it.

As for daily life among the Christians… I was (and am) a person of strong opinions, and, like most teenagers, I did not keep them to myself. I had it in for the missionaries, especially after some informed me that I was destined for hell if I didn’t believe as they believed. I had a furious argument with the teacher of our 9th grade religion class (who was also the school chaplain) about the unfairness of condemning to hell some hypothetical New Guinean who had never heard of Christ. His response, if I recall correctly, was that this was why it was so important for missionaries to reach every corner of the world with their message. I couldn’t (and can’t) fathom a belief which condemns people who don’t happen to have heard of the “correct” god in time to save themselves.

Some of my mish kid peers, being stubbornly opinionated teens themselves, were more aggressive than any staff member in proselytizing to other students, using well-worn lines imbibed from their parents. I furiously asked one boy why he kept hounding me. “If you found a wonderful fruit in the forest that no one had ever tasted, wouldn’t you want to share it with the world?” he asked. “Sure,” I answered. “But I wouldn’t shove it down their throats!” (He walked right into that one: having religion “shoved down our throats” was a frequent complaint among non-Christian students.)

At the ripe old age of 42, I have not changed my opinions about religious fundamentalism of any stripe: I firmly believe that religion, taken to extremes as it so often is, is one of the world’s great evils, leading only to strife, oppression, and bloodshed. There is much good in most religions, but it’s so often overwhelmed by misuse that all I can see is a net loss to humanity, sadly outweighing the undoubted benefit to many individuals.

However… I have learned to appreciate the non-proselytizing work that is the main focus of most missionaries worldwide. Their motivation may come from something I don’t believe in, but building and staffing schools and hospitals is good work by anyone’s definition, and I can only admire the dedication and courage shown by so many. The best staff at Woodstock were more concerned with living a Christian life themselves than with telling others how to live one. In those people I saw true Christianity at work, and they probably made more converts by example than anyone ever did by preaching. Not converts to Christianity, but to the true Christian spirit of giving and caring and looking out for one’s fellow human beings.

Doris Silver, the girls’ dorm supervisor, was one such. Being in-loco mom to over 100 teenage girls is a full-time job (which she did very well, but that’s another story), and she also had a family of her own. But Mrs. Silver was a trained nurse, and could not bear not to put those skills to good use. She ran a weekly clinic for the school servants and their families, treating minor illnesses and injuries which otherwise might have been left to worsen, and referring major cases to the hospital, where they might not have gone without Mrs. Silver’s urging.

I cared enough about Mrs. Silver’s feelings that I didn’t want to argue religion with her, and she never pushed it on anybody. She made it clear that she loved me no matter what I believed, and her God did, too. “I don’t believe in God,” I said to her once. “That’s all right,” she said. “God believes in you.” Which is probably the most generous statement I have ever heard from a true believer. A god who loves me even if I don’t worship him? I could almost believe in a god like that.

The Christian values demonstrated by Mrs. Silver and others “infected” most of us. My own class was probably less than half practicing Christians, yet many of my classmates, mish kids and non-, have gone on to careers serving humanity in one way or another. Would that have happened at any “typical” school?

After kicking and screaming about religion throughout my high school years, now, with 25 years of hindsight, I don’t regret Woodstock’s Christianity. Despite a few poisoned (and poisonous) apples among staff and students, Christianity has been a good thing for Woodstock students, and can continue to be so if handled correctly.

Woodstock today doesn’t wear its Christianity on its sleeve as much as it used. This is due both to internal policy and to changes in the outside world. I happened to be at the school for “homecoming” weekend in 1998, when new Principal David Jeffery made his first speech to Woodstock alumni. I was pleasantly astonished that he spoke for 40 minutes without once mentioning God. During a 1996 visit, I had been amused to overhear staff saying: “The principal’s back, we’d better show up in chapel this Sunday.” Two years later, it was no longer an issue – staff can go to chapel or not, as they please, without fear of executive disapproval.

There are practical and ethical reasons for Woodstock to be less overtly Christian in modern India, a country which often suffers “communal” (religious) strife and bloodshed. The Indian constitution firmly establishes India as a secular country, and it behooves one of India’s premier schools to uphold this important tenet.

On the other plate of the balance we must place the fact that the school’s land and buildings are largely held in trust by the Church of North India and the United Methodist Church, which could withdraw their support and take back their buildings if Woodstock were to become completely non-Christian.

There is also a delicate balancing act to be performed in staff recruiting. Some staff, especially some who are themselves alumni and former mish kids, are attracted by the idea of teaching in a Christian school. But there aren’t enough of these people to staff the school completely, and modern Woodstock needs a wider range of personnel. As recently as two years ago, staff recruitment materials on the school website showed such a strong Christian bias that some potential applicants were put off. The website now says simply: “All applicants are expected to state their willingness to support the statements of philosophy and purpose expressed in the School’s Mission Statement and to be comfortable with working in a largely Christian environment. As a Christian international school, we especially welcome applications from people with a Christian commitment.”

Summing it all up, I feel that Woodstock is in about the right place as regards its Christian identity and expressions thereof. There is a healthy mix of religions (and everything else) among staff, and all are free to express their religious feelings (or not) as they choose, for example in devotions during Assembly. That some staff are more publicly Christian makes them part of the broad spectrum of humanity that we hope Woodstock students are learning to appreciate and get along with.

India Vlog 2005: August 15 – India’s Independence Day

We left the Gordon House around noon; the hotel driver took us to Yuti and Sumeet’s house. It was a long drive, so we had plenty of time to observe Independence Day celebrations. Street vendors were selling cheap plastic flags, and everybody had at least one. I saw one dwelling that was just a sheet of blue plastic stretched between a wall and the pavement – with a flag tucked into the top. It seemed indicative of India’s mood that even someone living on the street in a tiny triangular space felt proud enough of his motherland to buy a flag to celebrate her independence.

Our original plan was just to drop our luggage and join Deepu for lunch, but Ross decided she’d rather stay at Yuti and Summet’s and sleep. So it was just Deepu and me for a long conversation over an amazing lunch – one of the best meals of the trip, at a restaurant called The Patio. Deepu wanted me to have authentic Mumbai-style food, so we had tandoori crab, a “dry” dish of curried shrimp, and a “wet” dish of curried fish, all of it amazingly good. I was also amazed at the service. Indian restaurants are oversupplied with staff, so we were constantly being offered fresh fingerbowls, our water being poured, etc. Not that the attention was unwelcome, especially the fingerbowls as we peeled crab and shrimp by hand.

NB: NOT on the menu!

I spent the afternoon with Deepu and Shilpin talking of this and that, then their driver took me back to Yuti and Sumeet’s, where we ordered in Tibetan food (I had absolutely no need to eat!) and watched the Ashes cricket test match on TV, which Sumeet (a former cricket professional) and Yuti tried valiantly to explain.

When that was over, it was time to depart for the airport in Yuti’s car, which had just had its wiring totally redone after being immersed to the roof in the Mumbai floods. The upholstery had been cleaned and sterilized, but a faintly swampy smell lingered, and when we alighted at the airport I realized that the seat of my jeans was damp, a final souvenir.

Shopping and Mehndi in Mumbai

India Vlog 2005: August 14

More shopping. Yuti went around with us to places near the Gordon House, including Fabindia, where I bought a cotton bedspread in blue, green, and purple, to go with some silk throw cushion covers I had bought on a previous trip – for the spare bed in my home office. I also bought a shirt or two, and presents.

Mehndi

In the evening, back at the hotel, we had mehndi (henna) painted on our hands, something Indian women traditionally do for big occasions, especially their own weddings. A complex design covering both sides of both hands such as we had done is called bridal because it’s most often done for brides (along with their feet).

The artist was a Muslim woman named Mumtaz, who brought along a young (Hindu) apprentice. They had not met before, so the conversation between the two of them (in Hindi) was interesting. The Hindu girl was trying to express solidarity, or at least non-prejudice, with Muslims. She mentioned that she had a Muslim friend named Farzana. She asked if Mumtaz had children. Two sons, was the reply. “What are their names?” I forget now what Mumtaz said, but they were typical Muslim names. “You people have such pretty names,” the girl remarked.

Even more fascinating was watching Mumtaz work. She told me that mehndi was a family craft that she had learned from her mother, grandmother, and aunts. Note that the film is NOT speeded up – she really did work that fast. Nonetheless, it took over an hour each to finish me and Ross.

As I watched, I realized that the paper doodles I’ve done for years are probably influenced by mehndi patterns; both are decorative ways to fill space. Though hands and feet are more fun to doodle on, and a well-chosen design, such as the vine pattern on Ross’ fingers, can enhance a graceful limb rather than just covering it.

Mumtaz agreed with Ross that for me to do one hand and one foot would be weird, so I ended up with both hands done. At which point I couldn’t film anymore!

As the mehndi dried, it began to flake off, showing the initially very orange color of the skin beneath:

Eventually we rubbed it all off with towels, trying not to grind the crumbs into the hotel’s bedsheets and carpet. Here’s how it looked then:

By the time we got home two days later it had settled into a rust color. Over time it faded, and was completely gone in about two weeks.

Initial reactions back in Italy were mixed. While Ross got compliments (“Ooh, pretty! Like Madonna!”), I got a lot of strange looks. People would glance at me and then do elaborate double-takes, sometimes frowning in confusion. But one man that I see frequently on the train gave me a huge smile. Someday I’ll have to get to know him and ask what that was about.

India Vlog 2005: August 11

We celebrated Ross’ 16th birthday at (Not Just) Jazz by the Bay, a restaurant belonging to my classmate Sanjay, along with fellow alumnae Yuti, Chinmayi, and Farah. The birthday cake was one of the restaurant’s famous gooey brownies, specially decorated for the occasion. Ross wore a garland of fresh jasmine (bought from a street vendor outside) and new earrings (a birthday present).

Afterwards we hired one of the horse carriages on Marine Drive to take us back to the Gordon House.

Deirdré Straughan on Italy, India, the Internet, the world, and now Australia