Category Archives: Italy

Hot, Hot, Hot!

Several large Italian companies have instituted a new energy-saving policy for summer: no ties. Open shirts (presumably without jackets) will mean the menfolks can live with less air conditioning, saving on electricity costs and environmental impact.

Al Gore, giving a speech in Rome on the day of the Live Earth concerts, missed an opportunity to embody this philosophy: he was dressed in a suit and tie, and sweated like a pig on stage. I guess no one told him that Italians don’t crank up the A/C nearly as much as Americans do (even before these new ideas came along).

i’m all for it – I always thought ties were fairly silly anyway, though I do understand that for some men they’re a chance to add a touch of personality to the otherwise dull male uniform. But not everyone is happy. Enrico saw an article in the Lecco paper that a local tie manufacturer was furious – if this goes on, his business will be ruined. Which leads me to wonder: how is the tie industry doing in the US these days? Surely the office casual revolution of some years ago pretty much killed it.

It seems to me that in the US nowadays, ties are most often worn by politicians and bankers. Wearing a tie may become a status statement: “I can wear a tie because I can afford a lot of air conditioning.” Which will, in turn, get flipped around by the environmentally-conscious: “You wear a tie, you must be wasting a lot of energy on air conditioning. And I’ll bet you drive a Hummer, too, you asshole.”

Where Italians Go on Vacation

Someone asked on Frommer’s: “Where do Italians go on vacation?”

The majority go to the beach. For at least a century, a seaside vacation has been considered healthful: during the Fascist period, ocean front “colonies” were built, where urban children could be sent to escape the grime of the cities.

The month-long summer vacation is still a reality for many Italians, who transfer their families (often including one or more grandparents) to a seaside hotel, apartment, or a trailer and tent in a campground. Even if Dad’s working, Mom and the kids will be there, with Dad perhaps driving down at weekends. Many families own second homes at or near the seaside, so take their vacations in the same place, year after year. It seems to be part of Italian culture to crave the comfort of familiarity and routine, even when you’re away from home.

Italy is a long peninsula, and also owns a lot of islands in a range of sizes, so there are plenty of beaches to go to, depending on your tastes and the size of your wallet. Choices range from the upscale, such as Portofino, Sardegna’s “Emerald Coast”, and Capri to… places that normal people can afford.

For family reasons, most of my Italian beach experiences to date have been very much in the affordable category, in Abruzzo on Italy’s central Adriatic coast. Having grown up in Thailand when it was still an unspoiled tropical paradise, I was astonished the first time I saw the Italian idea of a holiday beach: row after row of umbrellas, so close together that you could barely see the sand between them. I never have learned to see the charm of this.

(^ The photo at top shows a relatively roomy beach, by some Italian standards!)

Far from being relaxing, Italian resort towns are usually buzzing with activity: from early morning until late at night, you see (and hear) everyone (old and young) out and about, swimming, sunning (yes, tanning is still considered healthy here), strolling, chatting, eating gelato, being “animated“, until late at night. At least the afternoon siesta is held sacred!

Learn Italian in Song: Amo Tutte le Signore

I had never heard this song before (nor had Enrico) and I cannot find any references to it anywhere, so I have no idea who to credit for it. We heard it at a local festival, sung by a live band (a trio with lots of electronic and pre-recorded instruments). The song amused me so much that I decided to share (and translate) it.

Thanks to Annarella and QT for help with the lyrics!

Amo Tutte Le Signore

I Love All the [Older/Married] Women

Sono giovane e prestante I’m young and handsome
con un fisico d’atleta with an athlete’s body
di passioni ne ho tante I have many interests
ma non vado in discoteca but I don’t go to the disco
amo liscio* e mi diverto I love ballroom dancing, I have fun
ho la musica nel cuore I have music in my heart
ma ho un difetto, lo confesso: But I have one defect, I confess:
amo tutte le signore I love all the signore**.
ho provato con ragazze I’ve tried with girls
che hanno la mia stessa eta’ of my own age
sono piene di capricci They’re full of caprices
e hanno vizi a volonta’ and they have as many vices as you want
sono stanco di soffrire I’m tired of suffering
dico basta alle torture I say “enough” to the tortures
voglio andare sul sicuro I want to be certain
cerco donne piu’ mature I’m looking for more mature women.
ritornello refrain
Le signore ammaritate The married ladies
sono uniche e speciali are unique and special
hanno il cuore piu’ allenato their hearts are more trained
sanno si’ che cos’e’ l’amore They know what love is
Le signore piu’ piccanti The ladies who are more spicy
hanno il gusto del prohibito have a taste for the forbidden
ed un fascino elegante and an elegant charm
a cui mai rinuncero’ that I’ll never give up.
amo liscio e mi diverto I love ballroom dancing
ho la musica nel cuore I have music in my heart, I have fun
ma ho un difetto, lo confesso: But I have one defect, I confess:
amo tutte le signore I love all the signore**.
Le balere sono piene The dance floors are full
di fantastiche signore of fantastic women
che hanno voglia di restare who want to be
qualche ora tutte sole alone for a few hours
senza figli, senza casa without children, without a house
senza il solito marito without the usual husband
e hanno voglia di tuffarsi and want to throw themselves into
in un ballo esagerato*** an over-the-top dance.
*Liscio – “smooth” – short for ballo liscio – ballroom dancing.

**Signore – ladies, but specifically married ones (since signora means Mrs.)

***Esagerato – literally “exaggerated”, but non esagerare is used in the sense of “Don’t go too far.”

Italian Restaurant: La Quercia di Rosa

On our way down to Abruzzo for my mother-in-law’s 80th birthday, we stopped for lunch near Modena, the home of balsamic vinegar. Quite by accident (although this kind of accident is not unusual in Italy), we found an excellent restaurant, La Quercia di Rosa (the Rose Oak – ?).

They make their own balsamic vinegar, and, as the proprietress said, it’s so good that you can put it on everything or even drink it by itself as a digestivo (after-dinner digestive drink). The thin industrial balsamic vinegar that you can buy at the supermarket is only a very distant relation to this syrupy, sweet-sour nectar.

For starters, we had it sprinkled on aged parmigiano (parmesan cheese). The combination of flavors somehow reminded me of walnuts, though there was not a single nut in sight.

For my first course, I had pockets of lasagna dough baked with a zucchine filling, with a creamy basil sauce. Light, flavorful, and not too filling – perfect for the season.

Enrico had tagliatelle with fresh porcini (wild mushrooms) – also in season now and absolutely yummy.

My second course was zucchine flowers, dipped in a light batter and deep fried. These were very good just as you see them above, and even better with a few drops of the house balsamic.

Enrico had tagliata di manzo (sliced steak) – very good meat, well flavored with rosemary and pepper. Ross had sole cooked with… balsamic vinegar!

As a side dish, Enrico and I shared radicchio di campo (field greens) with a dressing of crispy pancetta (bacon – unusually for Italy, sliced thin) – we put some balsamic on that, too.

We were not surprised to notice a flask of balsamic vinegar on the dessert cart. I asked what it was used for in desserts, and here’s what I had:

Fresh strawberries with gelato di panna (cream-flavored ice cream) and balsamic vinegar. Heaven!

Total cost of the meal for three of us (two primi, three secondi, three desserts, half-bottle of wine, lots of water) was just over 100 euros.

La Quercia di Rosa

via Scartazza 22

localita’ Fossalta

41100 Modena

phone 059 280 730

email querciadirosa@libero.it

closed Tuesdays

more information about real, traditional balsamic vinegar

Italian Garden 2007: July

Unintended Consequences

Here’s what happens when I leave my garden unattended: I get beautiful wild grains like the above – otherwise known as weeds.

A weed I had been assiduously removing (but, obviously, missed one) turns out to have charming puffy purple blossoms.

The insalata riccia (curly lettuce) bolted into meter-high stalks with delicate blossoms. Wasn’t very edible at this point, however, so I took some pictures, tore it all up, and planted onions, herbs, and more lettuce in that space.

The wild fig that I never even planted, in the lower wall, came out with a promising crop of fruit.

And the vegetables just kept on producing – I picked our first tomatoes this morning.