Guests of Conti Sertoli Salis: Fine Food and Wine in Valtellina

Part 1: Lunch!

Many moons ago, spurred by a question on Fodors.com, I wandered the Internets, looking up wineries in the nearby region of Valtellina. Several had sites, some gorgeously produced. Sertoli Salis particularly caught my eye because the site was so very beautiful, and I knew the wines to be good, but the English translation was laughable.

Desperate for extra income, I wrote them, hoping to be offered the job of re-translating the site. They replied that, having just spent a lot of money to redo the site, they couldn’t pay cash, but there might be some wine in it for me.

They sent me the files, I translated a small piece and sent it to them, then my life got busy, I changed computers and lost some of the subsequent work I had done. The winery must have liked what they saw: they wrote asking if I could do the rest. Eventually I found the time (and some new wine-related vocabulary) to finish this not-small job and send it off.

NB: The English on the site today is not mine! It will be quite a job to replace the text on the site as it’s mostly embedded in the Flash – an unfortunate mistake made by many Italian web designers. The site is still well worth visiting for the beautiful photos.

I therefore had a standing invitation to visit the palazzo and winery for a tasting and a gift of “our very best wines”. Finally, last Saturday, we were able to make good on this offer.

Enrico and I set out with Pancrazio (a TVBLOB colleague) and Emanuela. Between bad weather and traffic we were an hour late for our lunch reservation at Ristorante Jim, which meant that we had to rush, while this fine establishment deserved more leisurely attention! Jim offers very interesting seasonal menus (in addition to a far-from-boring regular menu); this time the specialty was mushrooms and wild game.

porcini soup

Emanuela and I started with a vellutata di porcini (wild boletus mushroom soup). Oh, my. That was special. I want to go back and eat more of that.

The boys had tagliatelle al sugo di lepre – home-made egg pasta with wild hare sauce. Very gamey, very tasty.

For secondo, Emanuela had bocconcini di capriolo (“bites” of roebuck), which she said were tender enough to melt in your mouth. I had breast of wild duck in a balsamic vinegar reduction – I love duck, and this was even more flavorful than usual. Umm… don’t remember what Enrico and Pancrazio had, except that they both managed to squeeze in dessert afterwards!

Then we headed off to the object of our visit, the winery.

Part 1: Lunch

Part 2: The Palazzo

Part 3: Wine!

Raising a Non-Believer

A reader has just written to me:

“One was on an essay about Religion as a Cause of Strife in the World – you can bet she went to town on that!”

this is a comment you wrote on Ross’ India Diary and i have always wanted to ask you why you believe that Ross has arrived at an independent opinion/thought/decision regarding religion when it is the exact same opinion/insight you and your husband have. maybe mistakenly, but i’ve gotten this impression that you are very prideful that her belief is identical to yours and see it as a sign of her independent, intelligent thought. how much of a stretch is that really? how different is that to the child who grows up with the gospel every week at church and every day at home? how “independent” can that child’s outlook ever be due to that home conditioning?

It’s very true and completely unsurprising that Rossella, like most kids, shares her parents’ beliefs (or lack of). The more interesting question is: did how she arrive at those beliefs?

One of Richard Dawkins’ most provocative theses is that schools and even parents should not be allowed to proselytize children into religion at young ages. He points to lifelong traumas (both physical and mental) inflicted upon people (and cultures) from infancy, in the name of religion.

One might reasonably ask (many have) how Dawkins’ desire to promote atheism is any different from a religious person’s desire to promote religion. The logic here seems to be: “Atheism is just another belief. Why is it okay for you to preach what you believe, but not for religious people to do so?”

Here’s the “fundamental” difference: most religions teach their adherents – and particularly children – to accept certain strictures, norms, behaviors, etc. because someone in “authority” said so. Believers may be allowed to question up to a point, but sooner or later every religion comes down to “faith” – a necessarily blind (because unprovable) belief that there is some “higher power” out there which has an opinion about how you should think and act.

This is emphatically NOT how we raised our daughter.

My husband is a professional mathematician. This means that he thinks long and hard to come up with new hypotheses about how things behave in his particular realm of mathematics. When he can support his ideas with mathematical proofs, and those ideas are new, and important enough to be brought to the attention of his colleagues, he submits them (in the form of articles) to professional mathematical journals. There his ideas are judged by his peers for their truth and interestingness and worthiness of publication. If he gets something wrong, either he or one of his colleagues will figure that out. He thanks the people who point out his errors, and goes back to the drawing board.

The same thing happens in every scientific field. Ideas are developed, tested, and submitted to a jury of one’s peers. Sometimes an idea is proven wrong immediately, sometimes later, as more research is carried out. A few hypotheses survive the judgement of the scientific community and the test of time to become theories: which is to say, scientifically-proven facts.

All of this is done in a spirit of cooperative enquiry and (more or less) humility. No one can claim to know more than anyone else on the basis of some externally-granted “authority” – a scientist must be able to back his or her hypotheses with solid, provable facts.

I’m not a scientist, but I use the classic scientific method in my job every day: Does this work? If not, why not? What went wrong? Test one variable at a time til you find out where the problem is, then fix it. It’s a simple logic which can be usefully applied in many areas of life.

Given our professional and personal biases (and our penchant for arguing about EVERYTHING), Enrico and I have raised our daughter to prize inquiry, and not to grant authority blindly. We would be hypocrites if we had not encouraged Ross to think for herself and ask questions – to which we always gave grown-up answers.

This isn’t a totally easy way to raise a teenager: “Why do I have to be home at midnight?” In a family like ours, “Because I’m the mom and I said so!” doesn’t cut it. In Ross’ most exhausting, argumentative moments, I have gritted my teeth and consoled myself that: “At least I know she’s not going to do something stupid just because her friends are doing it.”

And, mostly, she hasn’t. We raised her to think for herself, and she does think – and, most of the time, she comes to very sensible conclusions.

If Ross called herself an atheist simply in imitation of me and her father, I’d have no reason to boast of her independence of mind. Perhaps at 18 she hasn’t put as much thought into her beliefs as we have, but I don’t think she’s merely parroting us. She knows that she is welcome – encouraged! – to explore what others believe (Woodstock is an excellent venue for that), and decide for herself what she thinks of it all. Her father and I remain open to discussion. Ross is no fool, and very likely someday she’ll persuade me to something I hadn’t previously agreed with. It wouldn’t be the first time.

The Twitter Diaries: Sept 2007

2: just back online after a weekend in Taos. Nice. Lots of art, some of it good. I got myself a fabulous ring.

3: feeling quite sick this morning. Don’t know if it’s yesterday’s BBQ or last night’s email bomb from my mother

more Ross: https://www.beginningwithi.com/Woodstock/rd070831.html

4: @lskrocki Duncan Retreat, B&B belonging to friend of a friend’s sister. Turns out we had common friends in Bangkok in the 60s

talked to both E and Ross yesterday, nice. Ross is in a Bollywood style production of Taming of the Shrew. Must get there in time to see it!

5: last day in Colorado tomorrow, heading on to the Bay Area to see lots of old friends, make new ones, and, oh, yes, work.

finally caught up translating Ross’ fotolog https://www.beginningwithi.com/Woodstock/rd070831b.html

I love online checkin!

6: a bit tired in San Francisco, trying to rest up before a week of complete insanity, followed by a week of likely stressful travel

7: Ross and the American expert: https://www.beginningwithi.com/Woodstock/rd070906.html

chi ci sara’? (aparte me) http://it.sun.com/sunnews/events/2007/sept/jc07/

@delymyth – benissimo! girl geeks forever!

@amandalorenzani at this horrible hour of the morning you’re at the airporrt?!?

waking up to good espresso, getting ready to take a train to Menlo Park. Very un-American, I know.

at a flexwork office at Sun Menlo Park. Mousepad says “Open work -the way we work at Sun” – photo: woman leaping w/laptop on beach. OTT?

8: stuck in the middle with respiratory problems: http://tinyurl.com/2x3erx

@jeffreytaylor I’m actually glad I’m NOT in Italy for the Pavarotti death fest.

a Woodstock classmate and I are startled to find that we now both work for Sun.

the calm before the storm… resting up before an intense week

I’ve been mostly out of the 200 blogs/day rat race for the last month, and glad to be. Now I’m going to sweep out the ones I haven’t missed.

enjoying a quiet day with old friend/former boss, tonight 40th party for another old friend/former boss, tomorrow… madness begins!

9:

“a major advantage of working for or doing business with Sun is that we’re too disorganized to be evil.” http://tinyurl.com/2ehd6q

I don’t like marketing via Twitter. I’m here to hear from friends, not advertisers.

about to settle down and watch TV (something I only do in hotels) – and remote doesn’t work. A sign?

10:

small changes: http://www.fotolog.com/rossella/20740143 when I was in school, there were few apples or pears anywhere in India!

must… stay… awake…

feeling America’d out. Too many “personalities” filling the vapid airwaves & occupying undeserved corners of my brain. Out, out, damned fool

11:

awake since 4 am and I don’t have jet lag!

wash my face, pop a pill, look at myself in the mirror, and – showtime, folks!

12:

another tiring day of filming

some companies don’t allow alcohol at company functions. Fortunately, this is not one of them.

13:

responding to a very harsh email from my mother. Not pleasant.

@michaelverdi – joining us for drinks at House of Shields Friday?

@kekkoz try “American Gods” instead

14:

back in SFO, looking forward to the weekend in the city, though I have some errandy stuff to get through tomorrow

who else is coming to the SFO meetup tomorrow? http://upcoming.yahoo.com/event/261606

@scobleizer – congrats to you and Maryam. Have to say, though, Milan sounds to me like a football team. (soccer, that is)

@caseymckinnon I keep seeing people who remind me of you. Fortunately, none of them with Hitler mustaches.

@manfrys – a Halloween ho visto una vestita da “sock monster” – quello che, appunto, abita nella lavatrice e mangia i calzini

@mafe per la prima volta?!? Era uno dei film preferiti di mia figlia, da piccola. Burton e’ decisamente un genio. Anche un pazzo furioso

15:

just had a nice evening with videobloggers and Woodstockers. My worlds collide: I force them to! – mutual interests abounded.

@scobleizer – weird coincidence, a colleague of mine went into labor today, a month premature. Fingers crossed.

16:

had a very nice day, but missing my daughter ferociously just now.

@kitykity your kids have their own media room?

San Francisco Scavenger Hunt: https://www.beginningwithi.com/images/usa/ca2007/index.htm

17:

starting to head home tomorrow, but to a very different life. Scary. Good? Bad? I don’t know yet.

18:

survived the trip back to Europe. no sleep. then 30 mins in immigration at Heathrow and one hour waiting for a taxsi (Dad sent him wrong)

Rossella does Ramadan: https://www.beginningwithi.com/Woodstock/rd070918.html

19:

domani notte torno in Italia, dopo quasi 2 mesi di assenza. Casa senza flgia, ma piena di ospiti (nonche’ marito). E – food!

sooo glad I’m not going back to another year of my kid misfitting and suffering in Italian school.

tutti insieme: Sandoka-an! https://www.beginningwithi.com/italy/lang/sandokan.html

why does Amazon want $90 to ship two power strips worth $10 from the US to Italy?

@amandalorenzani I’m in Milton Keynes myself. When do you head back?

20: @missb – Geddes at every presentation would be a career deterrent for me! Sun mtg yesterday started with “baby with invisible spliff” photo

21:

honey, I’m home!

can I go to sleep now?

23:

cercasi altre candidate a Web Women Weekend, casa mia a Lecco, un weekend (da determinare) a Lecco. Fatevi amiche su Facebook.

I can sense winter already – 6:45 am and it’s still so dark!

24:

Madre Rossella? Dio ce ne scampi! http://www.fotolog.com/rossella/21084298

25:

troubleshooting a probably faulty LAN card. Argh. I hate computers.

network problem resolved by reboots. Mysteries of Windows. Looking forward to new laptop. Sorry everyone, it’s a Dell. In Italy, they’re ok

lunchtime already, no wonder I’m starving!

I don’t get facebook. How do I list someone as a friend when I know they’re already on there?

I think I have really, really worked enough now for the day!

26:

rain at last. Of course on the day I have to go in to Milan.

yay! passport back already with additional pages. Now I can go apply for my visa to India.

so glad Ross keeps her fotolog going – I’d miss her even worse without it.

@ruperthowe Don’t feel bad. All the “excitement” over a game is as dumb as endless Paris Hilton. I wish the media would grow up.

getting ready to go out and film another Sun event. First results of all this to be posted soon. Content won’t interest most people, but…

27: contemplating facing another rainy day in Milan. Ugh

30:

back from a wonderful weekend in Venice with old friends and new. Ate, drank, laughed, but didn’t sleep much!

High Water (Not Hell) in Venice, part 7

Hummingbirds & Other Venetians

Sep 29, 2007

detail on St Mark's cathedral

^ detail on Saint Mark’s cathedral

^ So much for the singing gondoliers. They seemed to spend most of their time on their cellphones (like everyone else in Italy).

^ Alitalia Italian Airlines? Not for much longer…

The scene above took place on the balcony of the apartment, whose beautiful hanging garden of herbs and flowers attracted the local wildlife, including very large black bees and what appeared to be hummingbirds – which caused some debate among us. When finally convinced that they were birds, Enrico hoped that we had spotted something rare and strange (he’d never heard of hummingbirds in Italy). I asked our seemingly knowledgeable boatman later on about the surprising presence of colibri’ in Venezia, and he claimed that they were common.

Turns out everybody was wrong.

They weren’t birds.

They weren’t bees.

They were hummingbird moths. The antennae should have tipped me off. I did notice those, and thought it odd for a bird to have something like that on its head…

Venice 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

restaurant

High Water (Not Hell) in Venice, part 6

Venice’s Bad Karma

On Saturday morning, I learned what a macchiatone (“big spotted one”) is: it’s basically a caffé macchiato (coffee “spotted” with steamed milk), with a bit more milk – so, somewhere between a macchiato and a cappuccino, served in a cappuccino cup. I had it with a delicious little torta di riso (rice cake).

Then Enrico and I explored some more.

^ “In this antique home of the Dario family, Henri de Regnier, poet of France, Venetianly lived and wrote in 1988 and 1901.” Venetianly?

^ This was a mystery. Was the pigeon already dead when someone gored it with an umbrella?

The apartment we were staying in was owned by a Jewish family. On the wall near the kitchen was a framed edict of 1777, issued by a prince of Venice on the orders of an “Inquisitor of the Arts”, detailing horrifying restrictions on Venice’s Jewish community. Sobering reading. The Venetians invented the concept of ghetto, apparently.

Venice is indeed a beautiful city, but it has many centuries of bad karma to pay off.

Venice 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

restaurant

Deirdré Straughan on Italy, India, the Internet, the world, and now Australia