Funny Italian Street Names

above: “Wild man alley” – with a shop called Angel Devil on the corner. Chiavenna

The US is full of streets named after trees, or simply called “Main,” or given numbers or letters. Washington DC is built on a grid of numbers and letters of the alphabet. I won’t even attempt to explain Salt Lake City. These two schemes reflect an extreme tidiness of mind, but have the disadvantage that they’re easy to mix up or mis-type, no doubt causing the postal service all kinds of headaches.

Italian street names can be repetitive, but at least they’re not boring. They generally fall into two major categories: history and geography. Geographic names can be of towns or geographic features in Italy or in other countries; Milan has a Corso Buenos Aires and a Piazza Lima, every town in Italy has a via Roma and probably a via Milano. There are also streets named after important dates, such as Piazza XXV Aprile, commemorating the official day that Italy was liberated from the Nazis. (In these cases, the date is always given in Roman numerals, which are also used in print to refer to centuries.)

Don’t look for Italian street signs stuck up on a pole on the corner, as you see in the US. In the cities, street signs are marble plaques cemented to the corners of buildings. When the street is named for a person, the plaque often includes his dates of birth and death and what he was famous for, so you can have a history lesson just walking around. Somehow it had never occurred to me that the Falloppian tubes were named for somebody, until I saw a street sign with the name Antonio Falloppio and the tag “anatomist.”

The historical figures named run the gamut from ancient Rome to Aldo Moro, but most of them are men. The few women I’ve noticed are queens, saints, and Maria Montessori (whose image was also on the last 1000-lire note).

The older streets nearer the city centers are generally named for older historic figures. The further you get out into the suburbs, the more modern the names, including some non-Italians. There is a via Washington in Milan, and I have seen several via Kennedys in various towns, and even a via Fratelli Kennedy (Kennedy brothers). Still further out in expanding city suburbs, recently-created streets have been named for Gandhi and Salvatore Allende.

Some streets are named for items of strictly local importance. Lecco’s most famous son was Alessandro Manzoni, author of I Promessi Sposi (The Betrothed), considered the first modern Italian novel. So in Lecco proper we have a Piazza Manzoni and Ospedale Manzoni, and every town in the province of Lecco seems to have streets named for his characters: Renzo, Lucia, i Bravi, Don Abbondio…

Funny Italian Street Signs

This piazzetta in Bellagio honors a former mayor, whose name”Bifolco” literally means “peasant”, but also carries the connotation of “yokel” or “bumpkin.” Evidently the man outshone his name, being named a Cavaliere (knight, an honorific title nowadays), as well as elected mayor.

I’ve found unusual street names in the historical parts of some towns:

Viterbo

viterbo_oct_15_03_184

 

^ “Mane,” in the sense of a big head of hair.

 

viterbo_oct_15_03_183

“Kiss(es) Women”

Pitigliano

vicolo Serve Smarrite, Pitigliano

“Street of the Lost Maidservants.” ???

vicolo

“Slippery Lane”

Volterra

Chiasso delle Zingare, Volterra

“Narrow Alley of the Gypsy Women.” I was misled by this at first, because in modern Italian chiasso means “noise,” but a reader corrected me.

Pienza

And here’s an interesting sequence (yes, these streets actually are adjacent to each other).

vicolo

First comes love..

via

…then a kiss

via

…and over the rest we draw a veil of darkness

What’s the funniest street name you’ve ever seen (anywhere)?

Bellagio: “Beauty and Comfort” on Lake Como

Bellagio, Lake Como’s best-known tourist destination, lies at the tip of the triangle between the two southern branches of the lake. You can get there by road or get there by boat from Menaggio or Varenna.

Personally, I find Bellagio a bit overrated. During the season it’s overrun with tourists, and the shops are accordingly filled with overpriced souvenirs, most of which have nothing to do with the region (okay, I’m a souvenir snob – I only want something that authentically represents the place).

I concede that the views are stunning – but there are views at least equally stunning from other points on the lake.

But I end up in Bellagio a lot whether I want to or not, because our foreign visitors usually want to see it. My favorite way, during the summer, is to take the slow boat from Lecco.

Bellagio’s charm, for me, is in its verticals – everything runs uphill from the lakefront. (Which means that, to really appreciate it, you must be prepared to walk.)Above is a view up Bellagio’s main salita, with the (justly) famous Bilacus restaurant on the right. Below is a shop whose sign I’m fond of – I love the antique typography you can still find on many shop signs in Italy.

Learn Italian in Song: 7000 Caffé

 

written, recorded and copyrighted by Alex Britti Alex Britti - '3' (Sanremo 2003) - 7000 Caffé

Here’s another great by Alex Britti – go out and buy his music! Sadly, his own brilliantly original music video has been removed from YouTube, but here’s a version with another fave of mine, Neri Per Caso.

7000 caffé, 7000 coffees
li ho gia’ presi percha’© I’ve already drunk them because
sono stanco di stare al volante I’m tired of being at the wheel
e vorrei arrivare entro sera da te And I would like to arrive [at your home] by this evening
che aspetti me nel castello lassu’¹ Who are waiting for me in the castle up there
con la treccia gia’ sciolta With your braid already undone
affacciata al balcone vestita di blu Looking out from the balcony, dressed in blue
7000 caffé 7000 coffees
é l’effetto che ho is the effect I have
quando arrivo al portone When I arrive at the entry
e ti vedo gridare con gli occhi il mio nome percio’ And I see you call out my name with your eyes [therefore]*
vieni verso di me e io pazzo di te You come towards me, and me crazy for you,
in un attimo ci diamo il bacio piu’dolce, piu’dolce che c’é in a moment we give each other the sweetest, the sweetest kiss there is
Ritornello: Chorus:
Ho bisogno di te perche sei bella e poi I need you because you’re beautiful, and then
Ho bisogno di te come l’acqua il caffé I need you like [water needs coffee / coffee needs water]**
come un mondo che gira e che, amore, se non vuoi, Like a world that turns and that, love, if you don’t want
non finira’ mai Will never end.
Ad esempio lo sai l’altra sera ero a casa For example, you know, the other evening I was at home
cercavo da bere ma il frigo era vuoto I was looking [for something] to drink but the fridge was empty
perché non ho fatto la spesa Because I didn’t do the [grocery] shopping
tu non ci crederai – indovina che c’é You won’t believe it – guess what?
ho trovato una tazza con l’ultimo dei 7000 caffé I found a cup with the last of the 7000 coffees
Ora sto qui da solo e non dormo e non volo Now I’m here alone and I don’t sleep and I don’t fly
mentre tu sei lontana While you’re far away
ripenso a una scena di te senza velo I think again of a scene of you “without veils” [nude]
non so bene cos’é, forse i troppi caffé I don’t know what it is, maybe too many coffees
ma stanotte non riesco a dormire But tonight I can’t sleep
e l’amore lo faccio da me. And I’ll make love by myself.
* This word doesn’t seem to fit here – I suspect he just threw it in to fit the rhyme.** The meaning here is (probably deliberately) ambiguous.
if you find this useful and want more, let me know!

Sweetness and Dark on Lake Como

Some evenings, stepping off the train as it arrives in Lecco, there’s a slightly toasted, coffeeish scent of rich, dark chocolate in the air. It’s not a hallucination: Lecco is the home of Icam, one of the world’s largest manufacturers of organic chocolate. They process 6000 tons of raw cocoa beans per year, and when those beans get to cookin’, the whole town is wrapped in a sensuous fog of aroma.

I had long been aware of Icam as a purely local phenomenon – Icam-branded chocolate doesn’t even show up much in Italian stores, though some friends had proved to us that Icam’s chocolate-hazelnut spread was far superior to Nutella. I knew that Icam had a spaccio (outlet store) at the factory down in Pescarenico, but I never managed to get there until we’d been in Lecco for a while, and then only because they ran extended hours during the Christmas season.

I discovered one Christmas that they make very good “cru” (single-origin) tasting squares of “Extremo” 75% dark chocolate – I bought some for family Christmas presents.

More recently, I was surprised to notice that our friend Michele was selling Green & Black’s, the famed UK brand of organic chocolate, at his bakery in Lecco.

“Where did you get that?” I asked.

“They make it right here in Lecco!”

He told me that a British couple had stopped for a chat at his shop. Turns out the man was a financial officer with Green & Black’s, in town to visit their production partner. He told Michele that some (surprisingly large) percentage of Europe’s chocolate, including much of Green & Black’s, is made by Icam – exactly how much I have not been able to confirm. He may have been referring specifically to the organic chocolate market – I have not so far located any definitive figures on European chocolate production, though I did find a list placing Icam as number 89 among the Top 100 Global Confectionery Companies. They evidently manufacture for others who sell organic chocolate, such as Seeds of Change.

So Icam was on my Christmas shopping list again last December. I came away with:

  • three half-kilo bags of mixed chocolates (many of them Green & Black’s), at 5 euros each
  • two bags each containing ten bars of Green & Black’s
  • one bag of non-chocolate candies
  • a 1-kilo bar of dark chocolate for cooking
  • a 1-kilo bag of unsweetened cocoa powder for cooking
  • a half-kilo tub of “Icam-ella” or whatever they call their spread
  • a sampler box of the Extremo (pictured above)

Yes, it was a lot to carry! But I couldn’t resist – the bill for all this was only about 50 euros. Both at home and at the office, we had a very sweet Christmas.

Icam is doing so well that it needs to expand, but apparently is not finding encouragement to do so in Lecco. However, last I heard, their efforts to build a new factory in a nearby town were also frustrated by some strange local resistance.

<sigh> It can be inexplicably difficult to do business in Italy. Icam would probably have fewer hassles and lower costs if they moved their operation to some other part of Europe. But Icam is a family-owned business, and we can all be thankful that Italian families and businesses are stubborn about sticking to their roots!

You can visit Icam’s factory outlet store during the hours 8.30-13.00/14.00-17.00, Monday through Friday.

Deirdré Straughan on Italy, India, the Internet, the world, and now Australia