All posts by Deirdre Straughan

Where Italians Go on Vacation

Someone asked on Frommer’s: “Where do Italians go on vacation?”

The majority go to the beach. For at least a century, a seaside vacation has been considered healthful: during the Fascist period, ocean front “colonies” were built, where urban children could be sent to escape the grime of the cities.

The month-long summer vacation is still a reality for many Italians, who transfer their families (often including one or more grandparents) to a seaside hotel, apartment, or a trailer and tent in a campground. Even if Dad’s working, Mom and the kids will be there, with Dad perhaps driving down at weekends. Many families own second homes at or near the seaside, so take their vacations in the same place, year after year. It seems to be part of Italian culture to crave the comfort of familiarity and routine, even when you’re away from home.

Italy is a long peninsula, and also owns a lot of islands in a range of sizes, so there are plenty of beaches to go to, depending on your tastes and the size of your wallet. Choices range from the upscale, such as Portofino, Sardegna’s “Emerald Coast”, and Capri to… places that normal people can afford.

For family reasons, most of my Italian beach experiences to date have been very much in the affordable category, in Abruzzo on Italy’s central Adriatic coast. Having grown up in Thailand when it was still an unspoiled tropical paradise, I was astonished the first time I saw the Italian idea of a holiday beach: row after row of umbrellas, so close together that you could barely see the sand between them. I never have learned to see the charm of this.

(^ The photo at top shows a relatively roomy beach, by some Italian standards!)

Far from being relaxing, Italian resort towns are usually buzzing with activity: from early morning until late at night, you see (and hear) everyone (old and young) out and about, swimming, sunning (yes, tanning is still considered healthy here), strolling, chatting, eating gelato, being “animated“, until late at night. At least the afternoon siesta is held sacred!

Learn Italian in Song: Amo Tutte le Signore

I had never heard this song before (nor had Enrico) and I cannot find any references to it anywhere, so I have no idea who to credit for it. We heard it at a local festival, sung by a live band (a trio with lots of electronic and pre-recorded instruments). The song amused me so much that I decided to share (and translate) it.

Thanks to Annarella and QT for help with the lyrics!

Amo Tutte Le Signore

I Love All the [Older/Married] Women

Sono giovane e prestante I’m young and handsome
con un fisico d’atleta with an athlete’s body
di passioni ne ho tante I have many interests
ma non vado in discoteca but I don’t go to the disco
amo liscio* e mi diverto I love ballroom dancing, I have fun
ho la musica nel cuore I have music in my heart
ma ho un difetto, lo confesso: But I have one defect, I confess:
amo tutte le signore I love all the signore**.
ho provato con ragazze I’ve tried with girls
che hanno la mia stessa eta’ of my own age
sono piene di capricci They’re full of caprices
e hanno vizi a volonta’ and they have as many vices as you want
sono stanco di soffrire I’m tired of suffering
dico basta alle torture I say “enough” to the tortures
voglio andare sul sicuro I want to be certain
cerco donne piu’ mature I’m looking for more mature women.
ritornello refrain
Le signore ammaritate The married ladies
sono uniche e speciali are unique and special
hanno il cuore piu’ allenato their hearts are more trained
sanno si’ che cos’e’ l’amore They know what love is
Le signore piu’ piccanti The ladies who are more spicy
hanno il gusto del prohibito have a taste for the forbidden
ed un fascino elegante and an elegant charm
a cui mai rinuncero’ that I’ll never give up.
amo liscio e mi diverto I love ballroom dancing
ho la musica nel cuore I have music in my heart, I have fun
ma ho un difetto, lo confesso: But I have one defect, I confess:
amo tutte le signore I love all the signore**.
Le balere sono piene The dance floors are full
di fantastiche signore of fantastic women
che hanno voglia di restare who want to be
qualche ora tutte sole alone for a few hours
senza figli, senza casa without children, without a house
senza il solito marito without the usual husband
e hanno voglia di tuffarsi and want to throw themselves into
in un ballo esagerato*** an over-the-top dance.
*Liscio – “smooth” – short for ballo liscio – ballroom dancing.

**Signore – ladies, but specifically married ones (since signora means Mrs.)

***Esagerato – literally “exaggerated”, but non esagerare is used in the sense of “Don’t go too far.”

Death by Waiting

Thanks to those who have written words of encouragement and kept me in your thoughts and prayers. Yes, even as an atheist I can appreciate prayers – if you care enough to intercede with your god for me, I take it as a sign of affection, and affection never hurts. Besides, I have so many different denominations praying for me that one of them’s bound to take, right? <wry grin>

I also had a bunch of phone calls yesterday wanting to know the news. Unfortunately, there hasn’t been any yet. Some people have said this may be a good sign: if there was bad news, the hospital would be in more of a hurry to inform me about it!

All this helps, but basically I’m going through hell. I cope better with unhappy certainties – god knows I’ve had enough practice at that – than I deal with any kind of uncertainty. I’ve slept very poorly for a week (staying at a noisy campground at the beach last weekend didn’t help), and there aren’t enough distractions in the world to keep my mind off this. (Though Ross is certainly providing a full repertoire of teenage moments – I begin to suspect she’s trying to make me glad that she’s going away to boarding school!)

The fear and anxiety I’m experiencing are very normal – even the American Cancer Society says so. I now know that a number of my friends and relatives have already been here and done this. So why didn’t I hear about it before? It seems that people have different reactions: some keep it to themselves; some share, but only with their closest. And I suspect that, when the results come back negative, many feel a bit foolish for having put themselves through so much misery: “What right do I have to complain? I’m one of the lucky ones: turns out I don’t have cancer.” And they put it out of their minds until the next time.

Make no mistake, there will be a next time – after all, I have difficult breasts. And I have heard from and about other women who have gone through this multiple times for various reasons. There’s got to be some way to make this waiting period less horrible for all of us.

update at 10:30 am: Finally got hold of the doctor (“But she called you yesterday!” – oh?) – all is well, nothing to worry about.

Papa Fan: A Satirist for the Modern Papacy

Thanks to a tip from Ross, I have for some time been following a very funny fotolog by Francesco Rabaglia, aka Papa Fan (papa is Italian for pope, differentiated from papà – dad – by the stress). It’s hard to see the humor unless you understand Italian well: basically the writer is putting funny captions in heavily “Germanized” Italian on photos of Pope Benedict (also known in Italy as Papa Ratzi).

A few days ago he published an original poem, translated here with permission. Keep in mind that this is not quite normal Italian – there are no Ks in Italian, but they are often used in humor and comics to denote a German accent.

Io zone joseph ratzinger, zon ztate porporato I am Joseph Ratzinger, I was empurpled [made cardinal]
i signori kartinali poi mi hanno kandidato the lord cardinals then made me a candidate
per difentare pape e komandar tutto il papato to become pope and command all the papacy
e per piu’ di tre motivi me lo zone meritato And for more than three reasons I have earned this
il primo è ke ho koperto kolui ke era indagato The first is that I covered he who was under investigation
per motivi di stupro e di abuso reiterato for reasons of rape and repeated abuse
su pimpi e su minori, da parte del prelato of children and minors, on the part of the priesthood
dimentikate tutto: il fatto non c’è ztato Forget all that: the fact never occurred
zekonde: io zono zolo un umìle servitoreh Second: I am a humble servant
nella distesa vigna che zta a kaza del signoreh in the extensive vineyards of the house of the Lord
produce fino autoctono in krante quantitah producing local wines in great quantity
ne bevo fenti litri ad ogni messa qui in cittàh I drink twenty liters at every mass here in town
per terzo poi io kredo ke zi debba ritornare For third, then, I believe we must return
alla messa tridentina abrogando la volgare To the Tridentine mass, abrogating the vulgar / Vulgate
linguaccia italiana ke io ti foglio tagliare horrible Italian language that I want to cut
kozì recito latino e vi pozzo coglionareh So I recite Latin and can make fools of you.

Italian Restaurant: La Quercia di Rosa

On our way down to Abruzzo for my mother-in-law’s 80th birthday, we stopped for lunch near Modena, the home of balsamic vinegar. Quite by accident (although this kind of accident is not unusual in Italy), we found an excellent restaurant, La Quercia di Rosa (the Rose Oak – ?).

They make their own balsamic vinegar, and, as the proprietress said, it’s so good that you can put it on everything or even drink it by itself as a digestivo (after-dinner digestive drink). The thin industrial balsamic vinegar that you can buy at the supermarket is only a very distant relation to this syrupy, sweet-sour nectar.

For starters, we had it sprinkled on aged parmigiano (parmesan cheese). The combination of flavors somehow reminded me of walnuts, though there was not a single nut in sight.

For my first course, I had pockets of lasagna dough baked with a zucchine filling, with a creamy basil sauce. Light, flavorful, and not too filling – perfect for the season.

Enrico had tagliatelle with fresh porcini (wild mushrooms) – also in season now and absolutely yummy.

My second course was zucchine flowers, dipped in a light batter and deep fried. These were very good just as you see them above, and even better with a few drops of the house balsamic.

Enrico had tagliata di manzo (sliced steak) – very good meat, well flavored with rosemary and pepper. Ross had sole cooked with… balsamic vinegar!

As a side dish, Enrico and I shared radicchio di campo (field greens) with a dressing of crispy pancetta (bacon – unusually for Italy, sliced thin) – we put some balsamic on that, too.

We were not surprised to notice a flask of balsamic vinegar on the dessert cart. I asked what it was used for in desserts, and here’s what I had:

Fresh strawberries with gelato di panna (cream-flavored ice cream) and balsamic vinegar. Heaven!

Total cost of the meal for three of us (two primi, three secondi, three desserts, half-bottle of wine, lots of water) was just over 100 euros.

La Quercia di Rosa

via Scartazza 22

localita’ Fossalta

41100 Modena

phone 059 280 730

email querciadirosa@libero.it

closed Tuesdays

more information about real, traditional balsamic vinegar